Abstract In this study we investigated the capabilities of the mesh-free, Lagrangian particle method (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics, SPH) to simulate the detailed hydrodynamic processes generated by both spilling and plunging breaking waves within the surf zone. The weakly-compressible SPH code DualSPHysics was applied to simulate wave breaking over two distinct bathymetric profiles (a plane beach and fringing reef) and compared to experimental flume measurements of waves, flows, and mean water levels. Despite the simulations spanning very different wave breaking conditions (including an extreme case with violently plunging waves on an effectively dry reef slope), the model was able to reproduce a wide range of relevant surf zone hydrodynamic processes using a fixed set of numerical parameters. This included accurate predictions of the nonlinear evolution of wave shapes (e.g., asymmetry and skewness properties), rates of wave dissipation within the surf zone, and wave setup distributions. By using this mesh-free approach, the model was able to resolve the critical crest region within the breaking waves, which provided robust predictions of the wave-induced mass fluxes within the surf zone responsible for the undertow. Within this breaking crest region, the model results capture how the potential energy of the organized wave motion is initially converted to kinetic energy and then dissipated, which reproduces the distribution of wave forces responsible for wave setup generation across the surf zone. Overall, the results reveal how the mesh-free SPH approach can accurately reproduce the detailed wave breaking processes with comparable skill to state-of-the-art mesh-based Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) models, and thus can be applied to provide valuable new physical insight into surf zone dynamics.

中文翻译：

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使用平滑粒子流体动力学对冲浪区波浪动力学进行数值模拟

摘要 在这项研究中，我们研究了无网格拉格朗日粒子方法（平滑粒子流体动力学，SPH）模拟冲浪区内溢出和下落破碎波产生的详细流体动力学过程的能力。弱可压缩 SPH 代码 DualSPPhysics 用于模拟两个不同的测深剖面（平面海滩和边缘礁）上的波浪破碎，并与波浪、流量和平均水位的实验水槽测量值进行比较。尽管模拟跨越了非常不同的波浪破碎条件（包括在有效干燥的礁石斜坡上剧烈下沉的波浪的极端情况），但该模型能够使用一组固定的数值参数再现各种相关的冲浪区水动力过程。这包括对波浪形状的非线性演变（例如，不对称性和偏度特性）、冲浪区内波浪耗散率和波浪设置分布的准确预测。通过使用这种无网格方法，该模型能够解析破碎波内的临界波峰区域，这为负责底流的海浪区域内的波浪引起的质量通量提供了可靠的预测。在这个破碎的波峰区域内，模型结果捕获了有组织的波浪运动的势能如何最初转换为动能然后消散，这再现了负责跨冲浪区波浪设置生成的波浪力的分布。全面的，