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‘An aid to loveliness’: lavender, femininity and the affective economy of English beauty
Journal of Historical Geography ( IF 1.3 ) Pub Date : 2023-01-21 , DOI: 10.1016/j.jhg.2022.12.002
Hayden Lorimer

By considering the cultural production, placement, promotion and personalization of a fragrant aromatic, this article attempts to compile a historical geography of lavender and loveliness. The purpose of this experimental exercise is threefold. First, to examine the emergence of modern affective economies based around fashioning the self, directed at women's physical appearance and delineating desirable new standards of femininity. Second, to interrogate how the mid twentieth century beauty industry formulated the new concept of facial skincare in which ideas of a healthy complexion was complexly encoded with an aesthetic of whiteness. Third, to understand how the exercise of researching and writing such a sensory history is a means to address the challenges which non-representational theory has raised for scholarship in historical geography. Empirically, the article focuses on the operations of the House of Yardley, one of London's oldest perfumeries and beauty companies, and its foremost perfumier-cosmetician of the modern era, W.A. Poucher. To explore how the scent of lavender was deployed in markets globally, promoting a selectively English version of loveliness, it travels to various points along the supply line between the fragrant flower and female face.



中文翻译:

“助人一臂之力”:薰衣草、女性气质和英国美女的情感经济

本文通过对一种香薰的文化生产、安置、推广和个性化的思考,试图编纂一部薰衣草与可爱的历史地理。这个实验练习的目的有三个。首先,考察现代情感经济的出现,这些情感经济以塑造自我为基础,针对女性的外貌并描绘理想的女性气质新标准。其次,探究 20 世纪中叶的美容行业如何形成面部护肤的新概念,在该概念中,健康肤色的理念与白度美学复杂地结合在一起。第三,了解研究和撰写此类感官历史的练习如何成为应对非表征理论对历史地理学学术提出的挑战的一种手段。从经验上讲,本文重点介绍了伦敦最古老的香水和美容公司之一亚德利之家及其现代最重要的香水美容师 WA Poucher 的运营情况。为了探索薰衣草的香味是如何在全球市场上部署的,从而推广一种有选择的英语版本的可爱,它沿着芬芳的花朵和女性面部之间的供应线传播到各个点。

更新日期:2023-01-23
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