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Physicochemical and textural properties of natural cosmeceutical fats prepared from interesterified oil blends consisting of palm olein and palm kernel oil
Industrial Crops and Products ( IF 5.6 ) Pub Date : 2022-06-21 , DOI: 10.1016/j.indcrop.2022.115195
Zhen Zhang , Xiaodong Xie , Wan Jun Lee , Yong Wang

Natural oil is commonly used as the base oil of high-end cosmetics. To meet the requirements of general users, the ratio of traditional vegetable oil-based interesterified fats continues to increase in industrial applications. Common interesterified fats are derived from chemical catalysis, which shows high specification requirements for raw materials and catalysts. Although enzymatic interesterification (EIE) is not commonly used in industry, it is far more economical, healthy and environmentally friendly. This study aims to use palm olein (POL) and lauric acid-based palm kernel oil (PKO) as raw materials to produce EIE fats by using Lipozyme TLIM® as the catalyst. The migration of acyl groups during EIE contributed to the modifications of the triacylglycerol compositions, the production of fats with fine crystals due to the accelerated crystallization rate, and improved fat properties such as plasticity, melting profile, viscosity, and spreadability. The interesterified cosmetic base oil showed reduced hydrophobicity and unaltered refractive index with no toxic heavy metal elements introduced during the process.



中文翻译:

由棕榈油精和棕榈仁油组成的酯交换油混合物制备的天然药妆脂肪的物理化学和质地特性

天然油常用作高档化妆品的基础油。为满足一般用户的要求,传统植物油基酯交换脂肪在工业应用中的比例不断提高。常见的酯交换脂肪来源于化学催化,对原料和催化剂有很高的规格要求。虽然酯交换(EIE)在工业中并不常用,但它更经济、更健康、更环保。本研究旨在以棕榈油精(POL) 和月桂酸棕榈仁油 (PKO) 为原料,以 Lipozyme TLIM® 为催化剂生产 EIE 脂肪。在 EIE 期间酰基的迁移有助于修饰三酰基甘油组合物,由于加速结晶速率而产生具有细晶体的脂肪,以及改善的脂肪性质,例如可塑性、熔融曲线、粘度和铺展性。酯交换的化妆品基础油显示出降低的疏水性和不变的折射率,在此过程中没有引入有毒的重金属元素。

更新日期:2022-06-23
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