This article investigates the change in relations between Parisian haute couture and the French textile industry in the 1950s and 1960s. This study is grounded in the multiple changes that occurred between the two decades with the end of a state-sponsored and textile-backed aid to couture plan in 1960, the dematerialization of fashion in the 1960s and the advent of brands and licenses, and the waning of couture’s influence throughout the period. It cross-references archives from multi-stakeholder meetings between the state, couture, and textile representatives with the couturiers’ trade association archives and diplomatic archives to show how the changing fashion landscape impacted their interactions. This study shows that while the couture and textile industries drifted apart, the government’s interest in couture grew. This reframes the narrative on couture’s alleged influence as the spearhead of the textile industry while illustrating its wider prestige influence and its relevance to the state.

本文探讨了 1950 年代和 60 年代巴黎高级时装与法国纺织业之间关系的变化。这项研究基于二十年间发生的多重变化，包括 1960 年国家赞助和纺织品支持的高级定制援助计划的结束、1960 年代时尚的非物质化以及品牌和许可的出现，以及时装的影响在整个时期都在减弱。它交叉引用了国家、时装和纺织品代表之间的多方利益相关者会议的档案与时装设计师贸易协会档案和外交档案，以展示不断变化的时尚格局如何影响他们的互动。这项研究表明，尽管时装业和纺织业渐行渐远，但政府对时装业的兴趣却在增长。