The main goal of the study was to compare the effect of aqueous extracts of oat (Avena sativa L.), horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum L.), quinoa (Chenopodium quinoa Willd.), soapwort (Saponaria officinalis L.), cowherb (Vaccaria hispanica [P. Mill.] Rauschert) and soy (Glycine max L.) on model lipid monolayers mimicking the lipid membrane of keratinocytes and intercellular lipids of stratum corneum, and on human skin-related cell lines. Two lipid monolayers, consisting of a dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine (DPPC) and cholesterol mixture in a molar ratio of 7:3 and Ceramide VI, stearic acid and cholesterol in a molar ratio of 1:1:0.7, and two cell lines (human keratinocyte HaCaT and human skin malignant melanoma A375) were employed. None of the extracts reduced surface pressure below the level achieved for bare monolayers. The strength of the effect on the lipid monolayers (horse chestnut > cowherb > soapwort > soy) points to the existence of some specific interactions responsible for the observed affinity of biosurfactants from the extracts to the lipids in the monolayers. The cytotoxicity tests performed with two model skin cell lines showed that all six plants extracts significantly reduced the cells' viability in a concentration-dependent way. The model lipid monolayers were not solubilized by the investigated surface-active extracts. The latter thus proved interesting candidates for application in mild cleansing cosmetic formulations. Penetration of the monolayers by surface-active components of some extracts, especially horse chestnut, cowherb and soapwort, opens new possibilities for topical delivery of active components.

中文翻译：

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燕麦、七叶树、草本植物、大豆、藜麦和皂草提取物对模拟皮肤的单层细胞和细胞系的影响

该研究的主要目的是比较燕麦（Avena sativa L.）、七叶树（Aesculus hippocastanum L.）、藜麦（Chenopodium quinoa Willd.）、皂草（Saponaria officinalis L.）、牛草（Vaccaria hispanica [P. Mill.] Rauschert) 和大豆 ( Glycine max L.) 在模拟角质形成细胞脂质膜和角质层细胞间脂质的模型脂质单层上，以及人类皮肤相关的细胞系。两个脂质单层，由摩尔比为 7:3 的二棕榈酰磷脂酰胆碱 (DPPC) 和胆固醇混合物以及摩尔比为 1:1:0.7 的神经酰胺 VI、硬脂酸和胆固醇组成，以及两个细胞系（人角质形成细胞 HaCaT 和人皮肤恶性黑色素瘤A375）被采用。没有一种提取物将表面压力降低到低于裸单层所达到的水平。对脂质单层（七叶树 > 牛蒡 > 皂草 > 大豆）的影响强度表明存在一些特定的相互作用，这些相互作用负责观察到提取物中的生物表面活性剂与单层中的脂质的亲和力。用两种模型皮肤细胞系进行的细胞毒性测试表明，所有六种植物提取物都显着降低了细胞的 以浓度依赖性方式存活。模型脂质单层没有被研究的表面活性提取物溶解。后者因此被证明是用于温和清洁化妆品配方的有趣候选者。一些提取物，尤其是七叶树、牛蒡和皂草的表面活性成分对单层的渗透，为活性成分的局部递送开辟了新的可能性。