Socially conscious fashion entrepreneurs in the twenty-first century built many of the first visibly queer- and trans-focused fashion brands. In this paper, we critically examine nine of these brands that produced and distributed undergarments or other objects worn near or against the skin, such as binders, packers, underwear, lingerie, and bras. We draw upon oral histories with the brand directors, objects from each company, news articles, and online content. The brands emerged during significant socio-cultural and political changes and simultaneously engaged in dismantling and queering the past oppressive notions of the fashion industry. Unlike mainstream representation that often has positioned fashionable queer people as thin, cisgender, and white, these brands embraced an intersectional and social-justice lens throughout their business processes. The history of these brands demonstrates the interconnected complexity of fashioning queer and trans identities, fashion commodities, and fashion activist philosophies in the twenty-first-century capitalist marketplace.

具有社会意识的时尚企业家在 21 世纪建立了许多第一个明显以酷儿和跨性别为重点的时尚品牌。在本文中，我们批判性地研究了其中九个品牌，这些品牌生产和销售贴身或紧贴皮肤的内衣或其他物品，例如活页夹、打包机、内衣、内衣和胸罩。我们利用品牌总监的口述历史、每家公司的物品、新闻文章和在线内容。这些品牌是在重大的社会文化和政治变革期间出现的，同时也致力于拆除和消除时尚行业过去的压迫性观念。与通常将时尚酷儿定位为瘦、顺性别和白人的主流形象不同，这些品牌在其整个业务流程中都采用了交叉和社会正义的视角。这些品牌的历史展示了 21 世纪资本主义市场中塑造酷儿和跨性别身份、时尚商品和时尚激进主义哲学的相互关联的复杂性。