This article analyses how gluten was discussed by chemists in the nineteenth century in Great Britain and France as a proxy for both nutritive and baking quality. It examines the role of gluten in the broader quest to measure and render the quality of wheat and flour through a set of objective and quantifiable criteria. The paper also shows how measuring quality proved to be an extremely complex task, and how chemistry was, by itself, unable to reduce the complexity of the wheat grain, and the various demands made upon it, to a simple numerical indicator.

中文翻译：

---

Glutenophilia：19 世纪法国和英国的化学和面粉质量

本文分析了 19 世纪英国和法国的化学家如何讨论麸质作为营养和烘焙质量的代表。它通过一套客观和可量化的标准，研究了麸质在衡量和呈现小麦和面粉质量的更广泛探索中的作用。该论文还展示了测量质量如何被证明是一项极其复杂的任务，以及化学本身如何无法将小麦谷物的复杂性以及对其提出的各种要求降低到一个简单的数字指标。