Abstract

The angle between warp and weft yarns of woven fabric changes during the shear mechanism and this behaviour affects the drape, bending, tensile, forming and handle properties of the product. It is therefore important to estimate this shear angle when designing woven fabric. This study aims to propose a new generalised model to estimate the shear angle of fabrics having different sample sizes and different structural properties. An experimental study was designed to investigate both the effect of sample size and structural parameters of fabric on the bias-extension test results. Firstly, five different sample sizes were tested for a defined fabric type. Then, three fabrics having two different weave types and two different settings were tested with two test lengths. The shear angle results found by the new generalised geometric model, the formula is given in the literature and the experimental measurements were compared. The results of the proposed model are close to the measured ones. In addition, it has been observed that fabric properties such as weave type and setting have considerable effects on the shear behaviour of fabrics.

摘要

机织织物的经纱和纬纱之间的角度在剪切机制期间会发生变化，这种行为会影响产品的悬垂性、弯曲性、拉伸性、成型性和手感性。因此，在设计机织织物时估计该剪切角很重要。本研究旨在提出一种新的广义模型来估计具有不同样本大小和不同结构特性的织物的剪切角。一项实验研究旨在调查样本大小和织物结构参数对偏置-延伸测试结果的影响。首先，针对定义的织物类型测试了五种不同的样品尺寸。然后，用两种测试长度测试具有两种不同组织类型和两种不同设置的三种织物。新的广义几何模型发现的剪切角结果，公式在文献中给出，并比较了实验测量。所提出模型的结果与实测结果接近。此外，据观察，织物特性如组织类型和定型对织物的剪切行为有相当大的影响。