ABSTRACT

Sportswear textile is the interface between consumers, clothing and the environment in conjunction with human physiology. In this study, multi-response optimization of sensorial comfort properties of terry and fleece knitted sportswear fabrics was planned by varying areal densities (GSM) and fiber content under Taguchi-based gray rational technique. The L₃₆ Taguchi orthogonal array was used to develop thirty-six samples out of which 18 samples were washed in order to determine the effect of washing, areal density and fiber content on sensorial comfort of fabrics. From the results it was revealed that washing process caused positive influence on crease recovery rate, smoothness score, and resilience while slight reduction in drapability and softness was observed after washing process. It was found that as the polyester content was increased from 20 to 40% the sensory characteristics of both terry and fleece fabrics were increased. Similarly, the areal density of fabric also caused significant influence on sensory attributes of clothing comfort. Based on Taguchi gray rational optimization, the optimum fabric parameters were found to be terry fabric, after wash, 240 GSM and 60/40 cotton: polyester content for simultaneously achieving good sensorial comfort properties for sportswear fabric.

摘要

运动服纺织品是消费者、服装和环境与人类生理相结合的界面。在这项研究中，在基于田口的灰色理性技术下，通过改变面密度 (GSM) 和纤维含量来规划毛圈和抓绒针织运动服面料的感官舒适性的多响应优化。L ₃₆田口正交阵列用于开发 36 个样品，其中 18 个样品经过洗涤，以确定洗涤、面密度和纤维含量对织物感官舒适度的影响。结果表明，洗涤过程对折痕恢复率、平滑度和回弹性产生积极影响，而在洗涤过程后观察到悬垂性和柔软度略有下降。发现当聚酯含量从 20% 增加到 40% 时，毛圈布和羊毛织物的感官特性都会增加。同样，织物的面密度也对服装舒适度的感官属性产生显着影响。基于田口灰色理性优化，发现最佳织物参数为毛圈织物、水洗后、240 GSM和60/40棉：