ABSTRACT

A study was conducted to compare the quality characteristics of globally recognized pashmina shawls manufactured manually (using traditional tools and techniques) with machine processed ones. The quality parameters studied include areal density, thickness, ends/picks per inch, bending properties, tensile properties, surface characteristics using SEM and total hand value. The results revealed that areal density and thickness of handmade pashmina shawls were significantly higher than machine processed shawls. Ends/picks per inch showed no-significant difference among the treatments. Tensile properties of handmade pashmina shawls were found higher than machine-processed samples. Bending length was found less in handmade pashmina shawls while as bending rigidity was less in machine processed samples. The subjective assessment score in terms of total hand value was found significantly higher in handmade pashmina shawls than machine-processed ones. The scanning electronic microscopic images of the fibers from machine-processed shawls clearly depicts the damages inflicted during processing. From the study, it was concluded that machine processing leads to the deterioration in the overall quality of globally recognized pashmina shawls. Hence, the traditional practices of pashmina shawl processing need to be preserved to sustain the Kashmiri pashmina, besides proper labeling to avoid fraudulent trade practices.

摘要

进行了一项研究，以比较全球公认的手工（使用传统工具和技术）制造的羊绒披肩与机器加工的披肩的质量特征。所研究的质量参数包括面密度、厚度、每英寸端/截数、弯曲特性、拉伸特性、使用 SEM 的表面特性和总手感值。结果表明，手工制作的羊绒披肩的面密度和厚度显着高于机器加工披肩。每英寸的针数/针数在处理之间没有显着差异。发现手工制作的羊绒披肩的拉伸性能高于机器加工的样品。手工制作的羊绒披肩的弯曲长度较小，而机器加工样品的弯曲刚度较小。手工制作的羊绒披肩在总手值方面的主观评估得分显着高于机器加工的披肩。机器加工披肩纤维的扫描电子显微图像清楚地描绘了加工过程中造成的损坏。研究得出的结论是，机器加工导致全球公认的羊绒披肩的整体质量下降。因此，除了适当的标签以避免欺诈性贸易行为之外，还需要保留羊绒披肩加工的传统做法以维持克什米尔羊绒。研究得出的结论是，机器加工导致全球公认的羊绒披肩的整体质量下降。因此，除了适当的标签以避免欺诈性贸易行为之外，还需要保留羊绒披肩加工的传统做法以维持克什米尔羊绒。研究得出的结论是，机器加工导致全球公认的羊绒披肩的整体质量下降。因此，除了适当的标签以避免欺诈性贸易行为之外，还需要保留羊绒披肩加工的传统做法以维持克什米尔羊绒。