Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) petals, depending on the nature of a dyeing bath, dye fibers yellow or red. This is due to the presence of two kinds of components, water-soluble yellow colorants and alkali-soluble red compounds. In this study, safflower-yellow- and safflower-red-dyed silk, cotton, and wool fibers were investigated using high- or ultrahigh-performance liquid chromatography hyphenated with spectrophotometry and tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-UV-vis-ESI-MS/MS) and high-resolution Orbitrap mass spectrometry (HPLC-HESI-HRMS) in order to identify the natural dye in historical textiles. This way, several quinochalcone C-glycosides were separated and characterized. Their low- and high-resolution MS/MS spectra expanded the database of natural colorants in cultural heritage objects. Moreover, the colorless ct-markers (with a hitherto unknown structure) present in all safflower-dyed fabrics, regardless of the color or preservation conditions, were revealed to be E/Z stereoisomers of N1,N5,N10-tri-p-coumaroylspermidine. Since most of the standards was not available, discussion on possible molecular structures was provided. As a consequence, the analytical investigation of the reference fibers dyed with safflower demonstrated that the dye composition varies, depending on the dyeing conditions and type of fiber. Moreover, it was proven that carthamin, although alkali soluble, can be successfully released with a mild extraction method, without its hydrolysis under these conditions. The results helped us to characterize threads sampled from 16th to 18thcentury textiles of European and Near Eastern origin. It has completed the picture of natural dyes used in the most valuable textiles availed in liturgical vestments from the collections of Krakow churches.

中文翻译：

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用于研究历史纺织品中天然染料的质谱：揭开红花染色纤维背后的神秘面纱。

红花 (Carthamus tinctorius L.) 花瓣，根据染色浴的性质，将纤维染成黄色或红色。这是由于存在两种成分，水溶性黄色着色剂和碱溶性红色化合物。在这项研究中，使用高效或超高效液相色谱与分光光度法和串联质谱联用 (HPLC-UV-vis-ESI-MS/ MS) 和高分辨率 Orbitrap 质谱 (HPLC-HESI-HRMS) 以识别历史纺织品中的天然染料。通过这种方式，几种喹诺查酮 C-糖苷被分离和表征。他们的低分辨率和高分辨率 MS/MS 谱图扩展了文化遗产对象中天然着色剂的数据库。而且，无论颜色或保存条件如何，所有红花染色织物中都存在的无色 ct 标记物（具有迄今为止未知的结构）被揭示为 N1、N5、N10-三对香豆素亚精胺的 E/Z 立体异构体。由于大多数标准不可用，因此提供了有关可能的分子结构的讨论。因此，对用红花染色的参考纤维进行的分析研究表明，染料成分因染色条件和纤维类型而异。此外，事实证明，红花素虽然可溶于碱，但可以通过温和的提取方法成功释放，而不会在这些条件下水解。结果帮助我们表征了从 16 至 18 世纪欧洲和近东起源的纺织品中取样的线。