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Estimation of incident and reflected components in nonlinear regular waves over sloping foreshores
Coastal Engineering ( IF 4.2 ) Pub Date : 2021-08-06 , DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.103974
Thomas Lykke Andersen 1 , Mads Røge Eldrup 1
Affiliation  

The present paper deals with separation of long-crested regular waves into incident and reflected components. Such methods have been available for several decades for linear waves, but has recently been extended to cover nonlinear waves over horizontal foreshores. The overall goal of the present paper is to extend the separation method for nonlinear regular waves to cover also sloping foreshores. This requires the combination of the existing method with a nonlinear shoaling model. A nonlinear shoaling model was very recently found valid for the shoaling of the primary and bound components in regular waves when the slope angle is positive and mild. In the present paper this shoaling model is utilized and assumed valid also for the de-shoaling of the reflected waves, i.e. on a negative mild slope angle. However, if the reflected waves are nonlinear the de-shoaling process is much more complicated and will for example cause release of free waves. Interactions among those free reflected wave components may cause nonlinear interactions not included in the mathematical model. For that reason, the applicability range is limited to mildly nonlinear reflected waves. Using numerical model data with various foreshore slopes, wave nonlinearities and reflection coefficients the reliability of the developed model is examined in detail.



中文翻译:

倾斜前滩上非线性规则波中入射和反射分量的估计

本论文涉及将长波峰规则波分离为入射分量和反射分量。对于线性波,这种方法已经可用了几十年,但最近已扩展到覆盖水平前滩上的非线性波。本文的总体目标是将非线性规则波的分离方法扩展到也包括倾斜的前滩。这需要将现有方法与非线性浅滩模型相结合。最近发现非线性浅滩模型适用于当倾斜角为正且温和时规则波中的主要和约束分量的浅滩。在本文中,该浅滩模型被利用并假设对于反射波的浅滩脱模也是有效的,即在负的缓坡角上。然而,如果反射波是非线性的,则去浅滩过程要复杂得多,例如会导致释放自由波。这些自由反射波分量之间的相互作用可能会导致数学模型中未包含的非线性相互作用。因此,适用范围仅限于轻度非线性反射波。使用具有各种前滨坡度、波浪非线性和反射系数的数值模型数据,详细检查了所开发模型的可靠性。

更新日期:2021-08-17
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