Prosecco, a wine that two decades ago was virtually unknown outside of Italy and was considered inferior to other sparkling wines, has become immensely popular. But how did Prosecco producers gear up to meet a booming demand in a highly regulated wine industry such as Italy's? Is this an example of an inclusive growth trajectory? Who is capturing the benefits of this growth and who is bearing its hidden costs? Through the case study of Prosecco, I identify the everyday practices and struggles that underpin the growth of Prosecco in relation to nature, landscape and land use, and examine how the environmental, health and other hidden costs of agro-food value chains shape various layers of visible conflict. The great growth that has characterized the ‘Prosecco miracle’ of the 2010s arises from the reinvention of a geographic origin that was under threat following the 2008 EU wine reform. The ‘discovery’ of a village named Prosecco, located quite far from the original core area of Prosecco production, provided the vector for a large expansion of Prosecco viticulture and wine production, and the emergence of a veritable export bubble. This expansion, supported by key institutions, regulators and the regional political elite, is putting pressure on nature and landscapes and is fomenting local protests against indiscriminate agro-chemical spraying. I find that, while the industry claims to be addressing its key sustainability challenges, a number of conflicts and tensions persist. Ultimately, the case study of Prosecco provides key insights to current debates on the hidden costs of agro-food value chains and their resulting conflicts – confirming that commodity expansion is often linked to processes of appropriation of nature, landscapes and territories, and to the ability of business to capture surplus while externalizing the hidden social, health and environmental costs of production.

Prosecco 是一种 20 年前在意大利以外几乎无人知晓并被认为不如其他起泡酒的葡萄酒，现在变得非常受欢迎。但是，普罗赛克生产商是如何准备好满足意大利等高度监管的葡萄酒行业蓬勃发展的需求的呢？这是包容性增长轨迹的一个例子吗？谁在从这种增长中获益，谁在承担其隐性成本？通过 Prosecco 的案例研究，我确定了支撑 Prosecco 在自然、景观和土地利用方面发展的日常实践和斗争，并研究了农业食品价值链的环境、健康和其他隐性成本如何塑造各个层面明显的冲突。2010 年代“普罗赛克奇迹”的巨大增长源于对地理原产地的重塑，该原产地在 2008 年欧盟葡萄酒改革后受到威胁。“发现”了一个名为 Prosecco 的村庄，该村庄远离 Prosecco 生产的原始核心区，为 Prosecco 葡萄种植和葡萄酒生产的大规模扩张提供了载体，并出现了名副其实的出口泡沫。在主要机构、监管机构和地区政治精英的支持下，这种扩张正在对自然和景观施加压力，并正在煽动当地反对滥用农药喷洒的抗议活动。我发现，虽然该行业声称正在解决其关键的可持续性挑战，但一些冲突和紧张局势仍然存在。最终，