Abstract Collection SU4522 in the Finno-Ugric Collections of the National Museum of Finland consists of 143 items, mainly textiles from nineteenth-century White Karelia, now part of the current Russia. Forty-one linen textiles were chosen for closer examination, with the aim of evaluating the area’s textile culture and identifying the materials using microscopic methods. Flax, hemp and nettle have all been traditional materials for clothing in northern Europe. Additionally, cotton became established in the region during the nineteenth century. Previous research lacked such a deep examination of the textile materials used, leaving room for speculation. Stinging nettle has not been shown before to have been used as a textile material in the Karelian area. Our results show that it appeared commonly in rätsinä-shirts and käspaikka-towels. Against the consensus hemp was rare and appeared only in one of the items. The results are mirrored by concurrent pictorial and written material from I. K. Inha who visited the region in 1894 and collected most of the items in the collection. White Karelian textile traditions from clothing to fabrics, weaving, spinning and fiber production are discussed in the article. Nevertheless, questions concerning the origins of the materials and the effects of the peddling tradition would need further research.

中文翻译：

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审视 19 世纪后期的白色卡累利阿纺织传统——以植物纤维为中心

芬兰国家博物馆芬兰-乌戈尔藏品中的 SU4522 摘要藏品包括 143 件物品，主要来自 19 世纪白卡累利阿的纺织品，现在是俄罗斯的一部分。选择了 41 种亚麻纺织品进行仔细检查，目的是评估该地区的纺织文化并使用显微方法识别材料。亚麻、大麻和荨麻都是北欧的传统服装材料。此外，棉花在 19 世纪在该地区建立起来。之前的研究缺乏对所用纺织材料的深入研究，留下了猜测的空间。刺荨麻以前从未被证明在卡累利阿地区被用作纺织材料。我们的结果表明，它普遍出现在 Rätsinä 衬衫和 käspaikka 毛巾中。反对共识的大麻很少见，只出现在其中一个项目中。IK Inha 于 1894 年访问该地区并收集了馆藏中的大部分物品，同时反映了这一结果。文章讨论了从服装到面料、编织、纺纱和纤维生产的白色卡累利阿纺织传统。然而，有关材料来源和兜售传统影响的问题需要进一步研究。本文讨论了纺纱和纤维生产。然而，有关材料来源和兜售传统影响的问题需要进一步研究。本文讨论了纺纱和纤维生产。然而，有关材料来源和兜售传统影响的问题需要进一步研究。