This article presents an ethnography of the no-middlemen markets in Athens, where producers from all over Greece sell foodstuffs directly to consumers. No-middlemen markets offer an interesting lens through which to view the political foodways created in Athens, reflecting a wider changing landscape of shifting responsibilities for better food futures. I draw from theories on moral economy and reflect on the body of literature on alternative food networks and civic food networks. I argue that in Athens-in-crisis, citizen-producers and citizen-consumers step in and renegotiate the dynamics and power relations between civil society, the market and the State. By doing so they rebalance the dependence of the Greek agriculture from the State and EU protectionism, as well as from the food industry's oligopoly of middlemen, moving towards a more economically sustainable model. They also work towards reconnecting rural and urban foodways and reconstructing social relations around food. As such, they reshape and protect the identities for urban and rural populations alike, provide a contrast to the abstractions of neoliberal politics, resilience to the crisis and ultimately protect the foundation of the Greek society. To this end, this article offers a useful lens through which to explore the diverse ways responsibility is enacted and the social food politics at times of crisis, leading to a better understanding of the complexities and processes of resistance to the crisis by urban and rural people.

本文介绍了雅典无中间商市场的民族志，希腊各地的生产商直接向消费​​者出售食品。无中间商市场提供了一个有趣的视角，通过它可以观察雅典创建的政治饮食方式，反映了为更好的食品期货而转移责任的更广泛变化的格局。我借鉴了道德经济学的理论，并反思了有关替代食物网络和公民食物网络的大量文献。我认为，在危机中的雅典，公民生产者和公民消费者介入并重新谈判公民社会、市场和国家之间的动态和权力关系。通过这样做，他们重新平衡了希腊农业对国家和欧盟保护主义以及食品行业中间商寡头垄断的依赖，迈向更具经济可持续性的模式。他们还致力于重新连接农村和城市的饮食方式，并围绕食物重建社会关系。因此，它们重塑和保护城市和农村人口的身份，与新自由主义政治的抽象形成对比，对危机的适应能力，并最终保护希腊社会的基础。为此，本文提供了一个有用的视角，通过它探索制定责任的各种方式以及危机时期的社会粮食政治，从而更好地了解城乡人民抵抗危机的复杂性和过程。 . 它们重塑和保护了城市和农村人口的身份，与新自由主义政治的抽象概念形成对比，对危机的适应能力最终保护了希腊社会的基础。为此，本文提供了一个有用的视角，通过它探索制定责任的各种方式以及危机时期的社会粮食政治，从而更好地了解城乡人民抵抗危机的复杂性和过程。 . 它们重塑和保护了城市和农村人口的身份，与新自由主义政治的抽象概念形成对比，对危机的适应能力最终保护了希腊社会的基础。为此，本文提供了一个有用的视角，通过它探索制定责任的各种方式以及危机时期的社会粮食政治，从而更好地了解城乡人民抵抗危机的复杂性和过程。 .