This article discusses the concept of terroir in the light of the communication practices. It provides a literature review illustrated with a case observation. The author identifies three key stages in the constitution of the terroir through communication: organizational norms and interaction; the circulation of public relations, marketing and media messages, and promotion; and a meaningful consumer experience that closes the circle of a terroir-based storytelling. Here, communication processes play a leading role, which includes the agency of diverse stakeholders. The author argues that, among these stakeholders, geographical indication (GI) organizations are leading agents that build symbolic terroir practices. One of the text's principal theses is that terroir is a socio-cultural construction embedded in storytelling practices with a broad scientific, economic, social and cultural exchange. For this terroir to exist, there must be a collective will, driven by the interests of a wide range of stakeholders such as policymakers, local communities, vine growers, winemakers, marketers and consumers. The practice of defining, communicating and circulating this storytelling is what finally transfers agency to the narrative itself in what the author refers to as the will for terroir. The article illustrates the process with a case study of a wine GI in Catalonia (Spain) and discusses how the will for terroir is relevant at each stage.

本文从传播实践的角度讨论了风土的概念。它提供了一个文献综述，并附有案例观察。作者通过交流确定了风土构成的三个关键阶段：组织规范和互动；公共关系、营销和媒体信息的传播以及宣传；以及有意义的消费者体验，关闭基于风土的讲故事的圈子。在这里，沟通过程发挥着主导作用，其中包括不同利益相关者的代理。作者认为，在这些利益相关者中，地理标志 (GI) 组织是建立象征性风土的主要机构做法。文本的主要论点之一是，风土是一种嵌入在讲故事实践中的社会文化建设，具有广泛的科学、经济、社会和文化交流。为了让这个风土存在，必须有一个集体意愿，受决策者、当地社区、葡萄种植者、酿酒师、营销商和消费者等广泛利益相关者的利益驱动。定义、交流和传播这种讲故事的做法最终将能动性转移到叙事本身，即作者所谓的风土意志。本文以加泰罗尼亚（西班牙）的葡萄酒地理标志案例研究说明了这一过程，并讨论了风土意愿在每个阶段的相关性。