The thermo-physiological properties of handloom fabrics produced with or without modified wool/polyester yarns in the weft has been studied. Yarn samples at different blend compositions are prepared according to mixture design at a different percentage of fibres using design expert software. The effect of percentage of different fibres, namely polyester, wool and PVA, on different thermo-physiological properties along with fabric properties obtained for different fibres after the dissolution of PVA component at yarn stage or fabric stage have also been studied. This paper also reports the potential of different fibres optimization to achieve maximum desirability for different thermo-physiological properties of treated (at yarn stage and fabric stage) and untreated fabrics with the help of desirability function. Treated fabrics at both stages show better thermo-physiological comfort properties as compared to untreated fabrics. In general, after dissolution of the PVA component both at the yarn stage or at the fabric stage, the treated fabric gives a higher value of thermal resistance, compressibility, drying capacity and water vapour permeability, while a lower value of air permeability and bending rigidity in comparison with untreated fabrics. Results of optimization for treated (at yarn stage and fabric stage) fabrics show higher overall desirability that can be achieved by using less percentage of wool fibres in case of treated fabrics (either at yarn stage or fabric stage).

中文翻译：

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使用合意函数优化结构改性羊毛/涤纶混纺织物的热生理特性

已经研究了纬纱中有或没有改性羊毛/聚酯纱线生产的手摇织机织物的热生理特性。使用设计专家软件，根据不同纤维百分比的混合物设计，制备不同共混物成分的纱线样品。还研究了不同纤维，即聚酯、羊毛和 PVA 的百分比对不同热生理特性的影响，以及在纱线阶段或织物阶段溶解 PVA 组分后获得的不同纤维的织物特性。本文还报告了不同纤维优化的潜力，以在合意性函数的帮助下实现对处理（在纱线阶段和织物阶段）和未处理织物的不同热生理特性的最大合意性。与未经处理的织物相比，经过处理的织物在两个阶段都显示出更好的热生理舒适性。一般而言，在纱线阶段或织物阶段溶解PVA组分后，处理过的织物的耐热性、压缩性、干燥能力和透湿性值较高，而透气性和抗弯刚度值较低。与未经处理的织物相比。经处理（在纱线阶段和织物阶段）织物的优化结果显示出更高的整体合意性，这可以通过在处理织物（在纱线阶段或织物阶段）的情况下使用较少百分比的羊毛纤维来实现。与未经处理的织物相比，经过处理的织物具有更高的耐热性、压缩性、干燥能力和水蒸气渗透率，而透气性和抗弯刚度值较低。经处理（在纱线阶段和织物阶段）织物的优化结果显示出更高的整体合意性，这可以通过在处理织物（在纱线阶段或织物阶段）的情况下使用较少百分比的羊毛纤维来实现。与未经处理的织物相比，经过处理的织物具有更高的耐热性、压缩性、干燥能力和水蒸气渗透率，而透气性和抗弯刚度值较低。经处理（在纱线阶段和织物阶段）织物的优化结果显示出更高的整体合意性，这可以通过在处理织物（在纱线阶段或织物阶段）的情况下使用较少百分比的羊毛纤维来实现。