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What’s better than a biscuit?: Gourmetization and the transformation of a Southern food staple
Food and Foodways ( IF 1.2 ) Pub Date : 2021-06-30 , DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2021.1943614
Deborah A. Harris 1 , Rachel Phillips 1
Affiliation  

Abstract

In this article, we applied Wendy Griswold’s concepts of cultural objects and the cultural diamond to examine how a specific food—Southern style biscuits—underwent gourmetization. We provide evidence from observations of seven well-known gourmet biscuit restaurants, as well as a content analysis of their websites, Instagram accounts, and media coverage to understand how some establishments were able to position biscuits as a new gourmet food. We found that food producers combined upscale and exotic ingredients and recipes to create new ways of enjoying biscuits, as well as harnessed the power of social media to create excitement for their products. Simultaneously, the association of biscuits with the home and family recipes provided a form of cultural legitimacy and helped set these restaurants apart from fast food and its unhealthy, placeless reputation. Cultural tastemakers, including food writers and journalists, have aided in the rise of Modern Southern cuisine, which allows traditional Southern foods like biscuits to be viewed as higher in status. Customers, particularly those engaged in food-based tourism and those living in gentrifying areas have also helped encourage gourmetization through their willingness to pay higher prices and to embrace food as spectacle.



中文翻译:

有什么比一块饼干?:Gourmetization和南方主食的转型更好

摘要

在这篇文章中,我们应用文物的温迪·格里斯沃尔德的概念和文化钻石研究如何具体的食品 - 南方风格的饼干,后行gourmetization。我们提供的证据,从七个著名的美食餐厅饼干的意见,以及他们的网站的内容分析,Instagram的账户,和媒体报道来了解一些机构如何能够位置饼干作为一个新的美食。我们发现,食品生产相结合的高档和异国情调的成分和配方创造享受饼干的新途径,以及驾驭社交媒体的力量创造自己的产品的兴奋。同时,与家庭和家庭食谱饼干协会提供的文化合法性的形式,并帮助从快餐和不健康的单独的设置这些餐馆,无名誉。文化潮流制造者,包括食品作家和记者,已经在现代的南方菜,这使得传统的南方食品,如饼干被看作是身份较高的上涨帮助。客户,尤其是那些从事以食品为主的旅游业和那些生活在gentrifying地区也有助于鼓励gourmetization通过他们愿意支付更高的价格,把粮食作为奇观。

更新日期:2021-08-13
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