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The evolution and runup of nonbreaking undular surges
Marine Georesources & Geotechnology ( IF 2.0 ) Pub Date : 2021-06-24 , DOI: 10.1080/1064119x.2021.1936707
Feidong Zheng 1 , Pingyi Wang 1 , Meili Wang 2 , Jie Zhang 1
Affiliation  

Abstract

Physical experiments were conducted in a long water wave tank over a wide range of still water depths to study the evolution and runup of nonbreaking undular surges generated by the release of a given volume of water. The results demonstrated that the wavefront of a nonbreaking undular surge closely matched that of the corresponding solitary wave of the same height. The wave celerity of the surge could be accurately predicted using the solitary wave theory. Two distinct wave stages existed in the evolution process of a nonbreaking undular surge based on the wave shape asymmetry. The wave stage transition could be approximated as a surge Froude number equal to 1.15. The wave amplitude and steepness of undular surges were in reasonable agreement with the linear wave theory for surge Froude numbers greater than 1.20. However, the wave length data presented a different pattern to that predicted by either the linear wave theory or the solution of the Boussinesq equation. Furthermore, the maximum surge runup on a vertical wall was in excellent agreement with the solitary wave theory. This study provided new insights into the quantitative behavior of nonbreaking undular surges.



中文翻译:

不间断波状浪涌的演变和上升

摘要

物理实验是在一个长水波槽中在很宽的静水深度范围内进行的,以研究由给定体积的水释放所产生的不间断波状浪涌的演变和上升。结果表明,非破裂波状浪涌的波前与相应的相同高度的孤立波的波前非常匹配。使用孤波理论可以准确预测浪涌的波速。基于波形不对称的非破断波状涌浪演化过程中存在两个截然不同的波浪阶段。波浪阶段过渡可以近似为等于 1.15 的浪涌弗劳德数。对于大于 1.20 的浪涌弗劳德数,波状浪涌的波幅和陡度与线性波理论有合理的一致性。然而,波长数据呈现出与线性波理论或 Boussinesq 方程的解所预测的不同的模式。此外,垂直壁上的最大浪涌上升与孤立波理论非常吻合。这项研究为非破坏性波状浪涌的定量行为提供了新的见解。

更新日期:2021-06-24
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