Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to analyse dynamic drape behaviours of 100% wool woven suiting fabrics considering real-time usage.

Design/methodology/approach

Dynamic drape coefficients of 100% wool woven fabrics were measured at different rotation speeds (25, 75, 125 and 175 rpm) with a commercially used fabric drape tester which works on image processing principle. Average daily walking speed of male and female volunteers was determined and the closest rotation speed was selected to calculate dynamic drape coefficient at walking (DDCw). Besides, bending rigidity and shear deformation properties, which are known to be related to the static drape behaviours of the fabrics, were also measured and the relationships between these parameters and DDCw were examined.

Findings

As a result of the experimental study, it was found that dynamic drape coefficients become greater, which means the fabrics take flatter position, with the increase of the rotation speed. In addition, it was also seen that parameters known to be related to static drape behaviours such as unit weight and bending stiffness have less effect on the dynamic drapes of fabrics. For the estimation of dynamic drape behaviour of fabrics, parameters such as static perimeter, dynamic perimeter, etc. are found more significant.

Originality/value

To date, although studies about dynamic drape behaviours of the fabrics claimed that dynamic drape gives more realistic results for in wearer experience, few of them focused on the rotation speed of dynamic drape tester for real-time usage. As dynamic drape behaviours of fabrics may differ for different rotation speed, determining appropriate speed in accordance with real-time usage gives more realistic results.

中文翻译：

---

考虑实时使用的羊毛机织西装面料的动态悬垂行为

目的

本文的目的是分析考虑实时使用情况的 100% 羊毛机织西服面料的动态悬垂行为。

设计/方法/方法

使用基于图像处理原理的商用织物悬垂性测试仪在不同转速（25、75、125 和 175 rpm）下测量 100% 羊毛机织物的动态悬垂系数。确定男性和女性志愿者的平均每日步行速度，并选择最接近的旋转速度计算步行时的动态悬垂系数（DDCw）。此外，还测量了已知与织物静态悬垂行为相关的弯曲刚度和剪切变形特性，并检查了这些参数与DDCw之间的关系。

发现

实验研究结果发现，随着转速的增加，动态悬垂系数变大，这意味着织物处于更平坦的位置。此外，还发现已知与静态悬垂行为相关的参数，如单位重量和弯曲刚度，对织物的动态悬垂影响较小。对于织物动态悬垂行为的估计，发现静态周长、动态周长等参数更为重要。

原创性/价值

迄今为止，尽管关于织物动态悬垂行为的研究声称动态悬垂性在穿着者体验中提供了更真实的结果，但很少有人关注动态悬垂性测试仪的转速以进行实时使用。由于织物的动态悬垂行为可能因转速不同而有所不同，因此根据实时使用情况确定合适的速度会得到更真实的结果。