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Comprehensive wave climate analysis of the Uruguayan coast
Ocean Dynamics ( IF 2.2 ) Pub Date : 2021-06-16 , DOI: 10.1007/s10236-021-01469-6
Rodrigo Alonso , Sebastián Solari

A detailed analysis of how the wave climate gradually varies from the Atlantic coast to the Rio de la Plata (RDP) estuary coast of Uruguay is undertaken, exploiting a recently developed high-resolution wave hindcast. As a better knowledge and understanding of the wave climate along the coast is a valuable tool for coastal scientist and managers for analyzing and interpreting its dynamics, a comprehensive approach is taken in this work, exploring not only the behavior of integral wave parameters but also average wave spectra and wave systems obtained from spectra partitioning. Moreover, as the focus is made on coastal areas, the magnitude and direction of the wave energy flux are analyzed as well. It is found that the analysis of the wave climate sustains the division of the Uruguayan coast in three main regions, namely, Atlantic, Outer RDP, and Intermediate and Inner RDP. In the Atlantic coast, two swell systems and a wind sea system are identified, and spatial changes in the wave climate are driven mainly by changes on coastal orientation, where La Paloma was identified as a breaking point; in the RDP, swell systems strongly refracts and dissipates, resulting in a wave climate characterized by one to none swell systems and a wind sea system, with bathymetry and geometry of the estuary playing a major role in the spatial changes of the wave climate. The analysis allowed not only to identify several characteristics of each of the regions but also to better understand how different wave systems (sea and swells) explain these characteristics in the different regions.



中文翻译:

乌拉圭海岸的综合波浪气候分析

利用最近开发的高分辨率波浪后报,对波浪气候如何从大西洋沿岸到乌拉圭的拉普拉塔河 (RDP) 河口海岸逐渐变化进行了详细分析。由于对沿海波浪气候更好的了解和理解是沿海科学家和管理人员分析和解释其动力学的宝贵工具,因此本工作采用了综合方法,不仅探索了整体波浪参数的行为,还探索了平均波谱和波系从谱划分获得。此外,由于重点放在沿海地区,因此也分析了波浪能通量的大小和方向。发现波浪气候的分析维持了乌拉圭海岸在三个主要区域的划分,即大西洋、外 RDP、以及中级和内部 RDP。在大西洋沿岸,确定了两个涌浪系统和一个风海系统,波浪气候的空间变化主要由沿海方向的变化驱动,其中 La Paloma 被确定为一个断点;在RDP中,涌浪系统强烈折射和消散,形成以一对无涌浪系统和风海系统为特征的波浪气候,河口的水深和几何形状在波浪气候的空间变化中起主要作用。分析不仅可以识别每个区域的几个特征,还可以更好地了解不同的波浪系统(海浪和涌浪)如何解释不同区域的这些特征。波浪气候的空间变化主要由沿海方向的变化驱动,其中拉帕洛马被确定为一个断点;在RDP中,涌浪系统强烈折射和消散,形成以一对无涌浪系统和风海系统为特征的波浪气候,河口的水深和几何形状在波浪气候的空间变化中起主要作用。分析不仅可以识别每个区域的几个特征,还可以更好地了解不同的波浪系统(海浪和涌浪)如何解释不同区域的这些特征。波浪气候的空间变化主要由沿海方向的变化驱动,其中拉帕洛马被确定为一个断点;在RDP中,涌浪系统强烈折射和消散,形成以一对无涌浪系统和风海系统为特征的波浪气候,河口的水深和几何形状在波浪气候的空间变化中起主要作用。分析不仅可以识别每个区域的几个特征,还可以更好地了解不同的波浪系统(海浪和涌浪)如何解释不同区域的这些特征。导致了以一对无膨胀系统和风海系统为特征的波浪气候,河口的水深和几何形状在波浪气候的空间变化中起主要作用。分析不仅可以识别每个区域的几个特征,还可以更好地了解不同的波浪系统(海浪和涌浪)如何解释不同区域的这些特征。导致了以一对无膨胀系统和风海系统为特征的波浪气候,河口的水深和几何形状在波浪气候的空间变化中起主要作用。分析不仅可以识别每个区域的几个特征,还可以更好地了解不同的波浪系统(海浪和涌浪)如何解释不同区域的这些特征。

更新日期:2021-06-16
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