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Fustian and Velvet Cutting — A Subdivision of the Lancashire Cotton Industry
Industrial Archaeology Review Pub Date : 2016-07-02 , DOI: 10.1080/03090728.2016.1251008
Roger Holden

Fustian and velvet cutting is a little-known subdivision of the Lancashire cotton industry. Fustians are heavily wefted cloths, which includes cotton velvets. Some fustian, principally corduroy, and all velvets were woven with weft floats which were cut after weaving to form a pile. This remained largely a manual operation, in some cases still being carried out in domestic workshops, into the 20th century. Although some cutting was carried out in the Rochdale, Todmorden, Hebden Bridge and Oldham areas where these cloths were produced, velvet cutting in particular came to be situated in the Warrington area, in east Cheshire, where Congleton became the centre of the industry, and in adjoining parts of Staffordshire and Derbyshire. In its domestic phase, the industry used top-floor workshops similar to those used by weavers. The long, narrow mills built for silk throwing were suitable for conversion to fustian cutting and purpose-built mills took a similar form. Some of these buildings survive in alternative commercial or residential use.

中文翻译:

Fustian 和天鹅绒切割 — 兰开夏郡棉花行业的一个细分市场

Fustian 和天鹅绒切割是兰开夏郡棉花产业的一个鲜为人知的分支。Fustians 是大量织造的布料,包括棉质天鹅绒。一些丝绒,主要是灯芯绒,所有的天鹅绒都是用纬纱编织而成的,纬纱在编织后被切割成一堆。直到 20 世纪,这在很大程度上仍然是手工操作,在某些情况下仍在国内车间进行。虽然在生产这些布料的罗奇代尔、托德莫登、赫布登布里奇和奥尔德姆地区进行了一些裁剪,但天鹅绒裁剪尤其出现在柴郡东部的沃灵顿地区,康格尔顿成为该行业的中心,并且在斯塔福德郡和德比郡的毗邻地区。在国内阶段,该行业使用类似于织布工使用的顶层车间。漫长的,为投丝而建造的窄磨机适合转换为 fustian 切割,专用磨机采用类似的形式。其中一些建筑物在替代商业或住宅用途中幸存下来。
更新日期:2016-07-02
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