Abstract

Arbutin is used in cosmetics as a whitening ingredient. However, due to its potential to form the irritant hydroquinone upon degradation, its concentration in formulations has been restricted. In this study, a rapid, sensitive, and inexpensive method was established for the quantification of arbutin in cosmetic products. The innovation of this work is to use sodium hypochlorite to oxidize the arbutin phenolic group for rapid and specific determination. Excitation and emission wavelengths of 285 nm and 317 nm were employed. The solvent, pH, reaction time, and NaClO:arbutin ratio were optimized. The fluorescence intensity varied linearly with the arbutin concentration from 0.4 to 44 µg mL⁻¹ with a detection limit of 0.1 µg mL⁻¹. The validity of the method was characterized by the spike and recovery measurements; the recovery was from 96 to 106%. The method was employed for the analysis of marketed cosmetis containing arbutin.

摘要

熊果苷在化妆品中用作美白成分。然而，由于其在降解时可能形成刺激性对苯二酚，因此其在制剂中的浓度受到限制。在这项研究中，建立了一种快速、灵敏、廉价的方法来定量化妆品中熊果苷的含量。本工作的创新点在于利用次氯酸钠氧化熊果苷酚基进行快速特异性测定。使用 285 nm 和 317 nm 的激发和发射波长。对溶剂、pH、反应时间和 NaClO:熊果苷比例进行了优化。荧光强度随熊果苷浓度从 0.4 到 44 µg mL ^-1呈线性变化，检测限为 0.1 µg mL ^-1. 该方法的有效性以加标和回收率测量为特征；回收率为 96% 至 106%。该方法用于分析含有熊果苷的市售化妆品。