Reviewed by:

• Braunschweig and coffee: The history of the coffee roasting market from the beginning to the present by Peter Albrecht
• Margrit Schulte Beerbühl (bio)

Braunschweig und der Kaffee. Die Geschichte des Röstkaffeemarktes von den Anfängen bis in unsere Tage [Braunschweig and coffee: The history of the coffee roasting market from the beginning to the present] By Peter Albrecht. Göttingen: Wallstein Verlag, 2018. Pp. 502.

The title of this book suggests a local history on the development of a market for roasted coffee, and the central question of the introduction seems to strengthen this local focus. It is more than a local history, however. The author is a known expert on the history of coffee and coffee production and presents a comprehensive and insightful study on the history of roasting coffee and related technical innovations in Germany. His research is largely based on unpublished and unexplored sources.

He begins with the simple question of what we understand as coffee. Today Germans link a cup of good coffee with coffee brewed from roasted beans, but since its arrival in Europe in the late sixteenth century, coffee has been associated with a variety of products (ch. 1). The author reveals a bewildering variety of meanings that have been associated with coffee, from mocha, ground coffee, espresso, and coffee substitutes such as chicory coffee, to the latest invention of coffee pads (chs. 2–3). Some of these products originated from the creativity of businesses, others from technical innovations such as the introduction of electric coffee grinders, espresso machines, or new production processes like decaffeination or the invention of artificial coffee beans.

Next, Albrecht address the history of roasting processes from the seventeenth century onwards (chs. 4–7). In the early period, roasting was done at home in open iron pans or closed pot stirrers (agitators). Coffee production and retailing were revolutionized by industrialization, which began in Germany after the mid-nineteenth century. It started with the invention of the ball or drum roaster by a machine factory in Emmerich. The author presents a knowledgeable and comprehensive history of the rapid mechanization of coffee production: the variety of roasting and other machines needed for cleaning and sorting green coffee beans, automatic scales, and packaging machines. Mechanization also changed the heating processes. Industrial roasting began with the application of external heating [End Page 597] by coal or wood. It was replaced at first by external and then by internal air heating till the 1970s, when fluid-bed roasters were introduced. He also investigates the various technical processes of refining coffee before and after roasting, including decaffeinating and frosting.

The Second World War caused a profound break in the consumption and mechanization of coffee production in Germany. Only since the early 1950s did a renewed technical upswing towards modern large-scale roasters begin. It was accompanied by a process that led to the disappearance of small and midsized businesses. However, the last few decades saw the reemergence of small roasteries producing for a high-quality regional market.

The final chapter closes with an overview of the history of retailing between the seventeenth and twentieth century. In the beginning, consumers bought green coffee in pharmacies or from retail traders. That changed in the nineteenth century with the emergence of coffee stores and other specialty stores that sold sweets and colonial goods besides coffee. Decisive innovations in retailing occurred after World War II. Retailing was revolutionized in Germany in the late 1950s with the appearance of self-service stores and big supermarkets. It was a dramatic change, which led to a substantial reduction of specialty retailers and extensive concentration in food retailing. Coffee was increasingly bought from larger supermarkets and discount retailers such as Aldi or Lidl. The only specialty coffee retail store that has survived is Tschibo, though its range of goods has been extended to non-food articles.

Albrecht's book is the first comprehensive study on the technical...

审核人：

• 不伦瑞克和咖啡：彼得·阿尔布雷希特（Peter Albrecht）从开始到现在的咖啡烘焙市场的历史
• 玛格丽特舒尔特 Beerbühl（生物）

Braunschweig und der Kaffee。Die Geschichte des Röstkaffeemarktes von den Anfängen bis in unsere Tage [Braunschweig 和咖啡：咖啡烘焙市场从开始到现在的历史]作者：Peter Albrecht。哥廷根：沃尔斯坦出版社，2018 年。Pp。502.

这本书的标题暗示了当地烘焙咖啡市场发展的历史，引言的中心问题似乎加强了这种当地关注。然而，这不仅仅是当地的历史。作者是著名的咖啡和咖啡生产历史专家，对德国烘焙咖啡的历史和相关技术创新进行了全面而深刻的研究。他的研究主要基于未发表和未开发的资源。

他从我们理解的咖啡这个简单的问题开始。今天，德国人将一杯好咖啡与用烤豆冲泡的咖啡联系在一起，但自 16 世纪后期传入欧洲以来，咖啡已与各种产品联系在一起（第 1 章）。作者揭示了与咖啡相关的各种令人眼花缭乱的含义，从摩卡咖啡、咖啡粉、浓缩咖啡和咖啡替代品（如菊苣咖啡）到最新发明的咖啡垫（第 2-3 章）。其中一些产品源于企业的创造力，另一些源于技术创新，例如引入电动咖啡研磨机、浓缩咖啡机，或新的生产工艺，例如脱咖啡因或人造咖啡豆的发明。

接下来，Albrecht 讲述了从 17 世纪开始的烘焙过程的历史（第 4-7 章）。在早期，烘烤是在家里用开放式铁锅或封闭式搅拌器（搅拌器）进行的。咖啡生产和零售因工业化而发生革命性变化，工业化始于 19 世纪中叶之后的德国。它始于埃默里奇一家机器工厂发明的球或鼓式烘焙机。作者介绍了咖啡生产快速机械化的知识丰富且全面的历史：清洁和分拣生咖啡豆所需的各种烘焙和其他机器、自动秤和包装机。机械化也改变了加热过程。工业烘焙始于外部加热的应用[End Page 597]用煤或木头。直到 1970 年代引入了流化床焙烧炉时，它首先被外部空气加热和内部空气加热所取代。他还研究了烘焙前后咖啡精炼的各种技术过程，包括脱咖啡因和糖霜。

第二次世界大战使德国咖啡生产的消费和机械化发生了深刻的变化。直到 1950 年代初，现代大型烘焙机的技术才开始出现新的上升趋势。它伴随着一个导致中小企业消失的过程。然而，在过去的几十年里，为高质量的区域市场生产的小型烘焙厂重新出现。

最后一章以对 17 世纪和 20 世纪之间零售业历史的概述结束。起初，消费者在药店或零售店购买生咖啡。随着咖啡店和其他专卖店的出现，除了咖啡之外，还出售糖果和殖民时期的商品，这种情况在 19 世纪发生了变化。零售业的决定性创新发生在二战之后。1950 年代后期，随着自助商店和大型超市的出现，零售业在德国发生了革命性的变化。这是一个巨大的变化，导致专业零售商的大量减少和食品零售的广泛集中。咖啡越来越多地从大型超市和折扣零售商处购买，例如 Aldi 或 Lidl。唯一幸存下来的精品咖啡零售店是 Tschibo，

阿尔布雷希特 (Albrecht) 的书是第一本关于技术...