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Quantifying wave measurement differences in historical and present wave buoy systems
Ocean Dynamics ( IF 2.2 ) Pub Date : 2021-05-20 , DOI: 10.1007/s10236-021-01461-0
Robert Edward Jensen , Val Swail , Richard Harry Bouchard

An intra-measurement evaluation was undertaken, deploying a NOMAD buoy equipped with three National Data Buoy Center and two Environment and Climate Change Canada-AXYS sensor/payload packages off Monterey, California; a Datawell Directional Waverider buoy was deployed within 19 km of the NOMAD site. The six independent wave measurement systems reported hourly estimates of the frequency spectra, and when applicable, the four Fourier directional components. The integral wave parameters showed general agreement among the five sensors compared to the neighboring Datawell Directional Waverider, with the Inclinometer and the Watchman performing similarly to the more sophisticated 3DMG, HIPPY, and Triaxys sensor packages. As the Hm0 increased, all but the Inclinometer were biased low; however, even the Watchman reported reasonable wave measurements up to about 6–7 m, after which the Hm0 becomes negatively biased up to about a meter, comparable to previous studies. The parabolic fit peak spectral wave period, Tpp, results showed a large scatter, resulting from the complex nature of multiple swell wave systems compounded by local wind-sea development, exacerbated by a variable that can be considered as temporally unstable. The three directional sensors demonstrated that NOMAD buoys are capable of measuring directional wave properties along the western US coast, with biases of about 6 to 9 deg, and rms errors of approximately 30 deg. Frequency spectral evaluations found similarities in the shape, but a significant under estimation in the high frequency range. The results from slope analyses also revealed a positive bias in the rear face of the spectra, and a lack of invariance in frequency as suggested by theory.



中文翻译:

量化历史和当前波浪浮标系统中的波浪测量差异

进行了测量内评估,在加利福尼亚州蒙特雷附近部署了配备有三个国家数据浮标中心和两个加拿大环境与气候变化-AXYS传感器/有效载荷包的NOMAD浮标;在NOMAD站点的19公里内部署了一个Datawell定向Waverider浮标。六个独立的波测量系统报告了每小时的频谱估计,并在适用时报告了四个傅里叶方向分量。与相邻的Datawell Directional Waverider相比,积分波参数显示出五个传感器之间的总体一致性,并且倾斜仪和Watchman的性能与更复杂的3DMG,HIPPY和Triaxys传感器套件相似。作为H m0增加,除了测斜仪外,其他都偏低。但是,甚至Watchman都报告了合理的波浪测量值,直到大约6-7 m,此后H m0负偏置到大约1米,这与以前的研究相当。抛物线拟合峰频谱波周期T pp,结果显示出大的散射,这是由于多个浪潮波系统的复杂性与局部风海发展相结合所致,并因可被视为时间不稳定的变量而加剧。这三个定向传感器表明,NOMAD浮标能够测量美国西部沿海的定向波特性,其偏向约为6至9度,均方根误差约为30度。频谱评估发现形状相似,但在高频范围内的估计仍不足。斜率分析的结果还表明,光谱的背面存在正偏差,并且理论上也没有频率不变性。

更新日期:2021-05-20
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