Examined the spatial and temporal changes in the wave spectra using waves measured in the coastal area at two locations for three years. Long-term variability is examined with ERA5 reanalysis data. The annual average wave spectra have a significant wave height (H_s) of ~1m at both locations. During the Asian monsoon (June–September), the highest wave spectra resulted in H_s of 5.1m. Frequently, the wave pattern is with H_s of 0.4–0.8m and mean period of 3–8s. Annually, ~67% of the time, spectra consists of waves from 210 to 230°, 250–260°, and 300–310° with high waves (H_s > 4m) from southwest (250–260°). Due to the presence of significant wind-seas and swells, energy at the secondary spectral peak is ~38% of energy at the principal peak. During February–May, the sea state is dominated (~50% of time) by locally generated waves and young swells, while in monsoon, the swells are large (66–75%). Principal component (PC) of spectral energy density shows that monsoon and cyclonic storms are resulting in a large variability (~90%) in the first mode. Even though the wave characteristics are similar within 125 km distance, some metrological events cause significant changes in the waves and it resulted in different 100-year return period values at these locations.

使用在沿海地区在两个位置测量了三年的波，检查了波谱的时空变化。使用ERA5重新分析数据检查长期变异性。在这两个位置，年平均波谱均具有〜1m的重要波高（H _s）。在亚洲季风期间（6月至9月），最高的波谱导致H _s为5.1m。通常，波型的H _s为0.4-0.8m，平均周期为3-8s。每年约有67％的时间，频谱由210至230°，250–260°和300–310°的高波（H _s > 4m）从西南（250-260°）。由于存在明显的风浪和涌浪，因此二级光谱峰处的能量约为主峰处能量的38％。在二月至五月期间，海洋状态主要由当地产生的海浪和年轻的涌浪占据（约占时间的50％），而在季风中，涌浪则占很大比例（占66-75％）。频谱能量密度的主成分（PC）表明，在第一模式下，季风和气旋风暴导致较大的变化（〜90％）。即使在125 km的距离内波的特征相似，某些计量事件也会导致波的显着变化，并导致这些位置的100年返回期值不同。