On board the Macoris, the British woman traveller Eleanor Elsner peregrinated into French Morocco, landing in Casablanca in 1928. Elsner’s The Magic of Morocco is about the author’s search for the atavistic at a time when the European colonial power structure and the rise of tourism had transformed the exotic referent into the familiar sign of Western hegemony. Elsner could not help but experience a sense of displacement in time and space, an experience that produced either a sense of disorientation and loss, or an obsessive urge to discover the “authentic” Other. Elsner’s account is imbued with discursive ambivalences and ideological uncertainties. Her discourse is complicitous as she vociferously lauds the French colonial enterprise in the person of General Lyautey, the engineer of the “peaceful pacification.” The present paper focuses on Elsner and her account as a staunch advocate of the French colonial enterprise in Morocco and her quest for elsewhere. This paper explores Elsner’s discordant practices and discourses as a split subject/traveller in Protectorate Morocco.

在Macoris上，英国女旅行家埃莉诺·埃尔斯纳 (Eleanor Elsner) 游历了法属摩洛哥，于 1928 年登陆卡萨布兰卡。埃尔斯纳的《摩洛哥的魔力》是关于作者在欧洲殖民权力结构和旅游业的兴起已将异国情调的参照物转变为熟悉的西方霸权标志之际寻找返祖的故事。埃尔斯纳不禁体验到一种时空错位感，这种体验要么产生迷失感和失落感，要么产生一种发现“真实”他者的强迫冲动。埃尔斯纳的叙述充满了话语的矛盾和意识形态的不确定性。她的话语是同谋的，因为她大声赞扬了“和平绥靖”的工程师利奥泰将军的法国殖民事业。本文重点关注埃尔斯纳和她作为法国在摩洛哥的殖民企业的坚定拥护者以及她对其他地方的追求。