A number of models are available for science and engineering purposes that numerically simulate nearshore hydrodynamics and the corresponding morphological evolution. However, the models include adjustable coefficients in parameterizations for physical processes that need to be calibrated, and thus there remains room for improvement by including additional physics. One such model is XBeach, which can simulate erosion during storms with proper calibration based on observations. The modeled sediment transport, especially in the cross-shore direction, is sensitive to the adjustable coefficients, with preferred values that are site and event specific. Here, the skill of XBeach is investigated by comparing 1-dimensional (cross-shore) depth-averaged simulations with observations of waves, currents, and sandbar migration across an Atlantic Ocean beach. Calibration of coefficients improved the agreement of the computed results with observed wave heights, offshore-directed mean currents (undertow), the wave-orbital-velocity third moments (skewness and asymmetry), and onshore/offshore sandbar migration although the proposed coefficient values depend on the parameterizations used. For example, including a variable breaking-wave roller energy model resulted in more skillful predictions of undertow than using the default constant coefficient value. Using the calibrated roller coefficients and corresponding undertow, XBeach simulated the observed offshore migration of the sandbar. Onshore transport in XBeach is driven by non-sinusoidal wave-orbital velocities, and proposed values for coefficients depend on the parameterization used to estimate skewness and asymmetry and the associated transport, as well as on incident wave conditions. XBeach calculations of cross-shore sediment transport rates were compared with those estimated by a commonly used sediment transport formula based on laboratory experiments. The inter-comparison suggests that using a wave-induced onshore transport parameter 3 or 4 times larger than the default value may at least in part compensate for the lack of bottom-boundary-layer-streaming-driven-onshore transport in XBeach.

有许多模型可用于科学和工程目的，这些模型可以数值模拟近岸流体动力学和相应的形态演化。但是，该模型在需要校准的物理过程的参数化中包括可调系数，因此，通过包括其他物理方法，仍有改进的空间。一种这样的模型是XBeach，它可以根据观测值通过适当的校准来模拟暴风雨期间的侵蚀。建模的沉积物传输，尤其是在跨海岸方向的传输，对可调系数很敏感，首选值是特定地点和特定事件的。在这里，通过将一维（跨岸）深度平均模拟与跨大西洋海滩的海浪，洋流和沙洲迁移的观测结果进行比较，来研究XBeach的技能。系数的校准改善了计算结果与观测波高，海上定向平均海流（水下拖曳），波浪轨道速度三次矩（偏度和不对称性）以及陆上/近海沙洲迁移的一致性，尽管建议的系数值取决于根据所使用的参数设置。例如，与使用默认恒定系数值相比，包含可变的碎波波能模型可以更准确地预测下陷。XBeach使用校准的滚子系数和相应的下陷，模拟了观察到的沙洲的海上迁移。XBeach中的陆上运输受非正弦波轨道速度驱动，建议的系数值取决于用于估计偏度和不对称性的参数化以及相关的运输，以及在入射波条件下。将XBeach跨岸沉积物传输速率的计算结果与基于实验室实验的常用沉积物传输公式所估算的结果进行了比较。相互比较表明，使用波浪感应的陆上运输参数是默认值的3或4倍，可以至少部分弥补XBeach中缺乏底部边界层流驱动的陆上运输的问题。