Abstract

This paper analyzes the data of in situ measurements of the parameters of surface waves carried out at various degrees of development. The Toba relations relating the heights and periods of wind waves are discussed. The factors that determine the deviation of these laws from the classical 3/2 law are discussed. Using the probabilistic laws of A.N. Kolmogorov and his school, an interpretation of the features of the diffusion of an impurity in the field of surface waves at various accelerations is proposed.

中文翻译：

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从AN Kolmogorov和他的学校的概率定律的角度看海浪的频谱和增长规律

摘要

本文分析了在不同发展程度下进行的表面波参数的原位测量数据。讨论了与风浪的高度和周期有关的鸟羽关系。讨论了确定这些定律偏离经典3/2定律的因素。利用AN Kolmogorov和他的学校的概率定律，提出了在各种加速度下表面波场中杂质扩散特征的解释。