Aubusson (France) has been inscribed on the List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO since 2009 for its centuries‐old tradition for the art of tapestry. The present study concerns one of these “Grand teint” tapestries, a Verdure with Count von Brühl's coat of arms (18th C.), characterized by very high‐quality dyeing and fine weaving. The restoration in progress allowed the removal of the lining of the back, which protected the colour from light. Hyperspectral imagery and μ‐spectrofluorimetry made on each side of the tapestry showed the influence of natural degradation of dyes. Experimental tests carried out model samples artificially aged, allowed us a better understanding of these observations. The fibers (silk and wool) and dyes (weld, …) were identified and the roles of alum and tartar as mordants were questioned. Our work revealed the action of the recipe on the photodegradation rate and the effect of aging on the spectra's shape for yellow dyes and the disappearance of some compounds, such as chlorophyll “a,” as a marker of the degradation.

中文翻译：

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18世纪挂毯中黄色染料的非侵入式表征：成分对降解的影响

自2009年起，Aubusson（法国）就因其挂毯艺术的悠久传统而被联合国教科文组织列入“人类非物质文化遗产名录”。本研究关注这些“之一大TEINT ”挂毯，一个翠绿带有冯·布吕尔伯爵的徽章（18世纪），其特点是非常高质量的染色和精细的编织。进行中的修复过程允许去除背面的衬里，从而保护了颜色免受光线照射。挂毯两侧的高光谱成像和μ光谱荧光法显示了染料自然降解的影响。通过人工老化的模型样本进行的实验测试，使我们对这些观察结果有了更好的了解。确定了纤维（丝绸和羊毛）和染料（焊接……），并质疑明矾和牙垢作为媒染剂的作用。我们的工作揭示了该配方对光降解速率的作用以及老化对黄色染料的光谱形状的影响以及某些化合物（例如叶绿素“ a”）的消失，作为降解的标志。