当前位置: X-MOL 学术Societies › 论文详情
Our official English website, www.x-mol.net, welcomes your feedback! (Note: you will need to create a separate account there.)
Lithuanian National Costume in the 19th Century and in the 2nd Half of the 20th Century: Cultural Pollution and Remains of Authenticity
Societies Pub Date : 2021-03-03 , DOI: 10.3390/soc11010017
Eglė Kumpikaitė 1 , Rimvydas Milašius 1
Affiliation  

Lithuanian authors, authors abroad, and artists have presented Lithuanian folk clothes in their works. However, the oldest examples of these representations are not very reliable, because the authors painted them according to the descriptions of other people or copied works among each other. In the 20th century, the national costume of Lithuania changed considerably. Attention was not given to ethnographic regional peculiarities; instead, similar materials were chosen without any analysis. This article performs a comparative analysis of folk (the 19th century to the first half of the 20th century) and national (the second half of the 20th century) Lithuanian costumes to establish signs of cultural pollution and remaining authenticity. Over 500 articles of clothing with different purposes are collected from Lithuanian museums. Fabric parameters, such as raw materials, weaving technique, weave, pattern, decoration elements, etc., are established. The research results show that authentic folk clothes of the 19th century differ from the national costume of the second half of the 20th century in their cut, decoration, and patterns. No differences between ethnographic regions survived in the national costumes. Thus, at present, we must preserve our tangible heritage and re-create, as authentically as possible, national costume for folk songs and dance ensembles, folk restaurants, and rural tourism homesteads.

中文翻译:

19世纪和20世纪下半叶的立陶宛民族服饰:文化污染和真实性的遗存

立陶宛作家,国外作家和艺术家在他们的作品中介绍了立陶宛民间服装。但是,这些表示形式的最早示例并不是很可靠,因为作者是根据其他人的描述将它们绘制出来的,或者是彼此之间相互复制的作品。在20世纪,立陶宛的民族服装相当大的变化。没有注意民族志区域的特殊性;取而代之的是,类似材料的选择无需任何分析。本文执行民间的比较分析(19世纪到20的第一半世纪)和国家(下半场的20世纪)立陶宛服饰确立了文化污染和真实性的迹象。从立陶宛博物馆收集了500多种不同用途的服装。建立诸如原材料,编织技术,编织,图案,装饰元素等的织物参数。研究结果表明,19地道民俗衣服世纪从20下半年的民族服装不同世纪在他们的剪裁,装饰和图案。各民族区域之间的民族服饰没有差异。因此,目前,我们必须保留我们的有形遗产,并尽可能真实地重建民族服装,以供民间歌舞团,民俗餐厅和乡村旅游家园之用。
更新日期:2021-03-03
down
wechat
bug