Abstract This paper argues that a focus on the idea of the “fashion city” can prove counter-productive in thinking about the relationship between fashion and urbanism. We suggest four provocations about the “hunt for the fashion city.” First, we argue that the hunt for a singular fashion city is misguided, and seek to move away from a model set by a limited number of established fashion capitals. In particular we propose a “field” of fashion city types, an approach that both acknowledges the diversity of relationships between fashion and cities, and recognizes the different paths that cities have taken. Second, we ask for new maps in the hunt for the fashion city, seeing cities as nodes in wider fashion geographies, and arguing for more extensive and complex cartographies of sites and roles of fashion within cities. Third, we argue that the focus on the “fashion city” gives an inappropriate priority to fashion, and ask whether we are better served by thinking about how fashion works in imperial cities, authoritarian cities and neoliberal cities. Finally, we ask whether the “the fashion city” and particularly the relationship between great metropolises and fashion authority has a particular periodization, and whether our quest might shift in the twenty first century to think about the wider systemic nature of fashion urbanization.

中文翻译：

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时尚城市的狩猎：21世纪时尚与城市关系的再思考

摘要 本文认为，在思考时尚与都市主义之间的关系时，关注“时尚城市”的概念可能会适得其反。我们提出了关于“追捕时尚之都”的四个挑衅。首先，我们认为寻找一个单一的时尚城市是错误的，并试图摆脱由数量有限的时尚之都设定的模式。我们特别提出了一个时尚城市类型的“领域”，这种方法既承认时尚与城市之间关系的多样性，也承认城市所采取的不同路径。其次，我们在寻找时尚城市的过程中需要新的地图，将城市视为更广泛的时尚地理区域中的节点，并主张更广泛、更复杂的地点和城市中时尚角色的制图。第三，我们认为，对“时尚之都”的关注不恰当地优先考虑时尚，并通过思考时尚在帝国城市、专制城市和新自由主义城市中的运作方式来思考是否能更好地为我们服务。最后，我们问“时尚之都”，特别是大都市与时尚权威之间的关系是否有特定的周期，以及我们的追求是否会在 21 世纪转向思考时尚城市化更广泛的系统性本质。