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Passing as Fashionable, Feminine and Sane: “Therapy of Fashion” and the Normalization of Psychiatric Patients in 1960s US
Fashion Theory ( IF 0.7 ) Pub Date : 2020-04-07 , DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2020.1746515
Renate Stauss

Abstract This article introduces the little-known therapeutic approach of “Therapy of Fashion.” Piloted with a group of female psychiatric patients at Napa State Hospital in California in 1959 and initially carried out as a volunteer project by The Fashion Group of San Francisco, it was practiced in several US-American cities throughout the 1960s. By drawing on a Foucauldian analytical framework, this article analyses how dress and fashion, in the context of “Therapy of Fashion,” were constructed as a normalizing “technology of the self,” as a way of transforming, improving and, effectively, normalizing the bodies and minds of patients. It argues that this therapeutic approach in its official aim of “recreating healthy feminine characteristics” intended to make female patients pass as women, and pass as normative with regards to their gender roles, social behavior and appearance. Moreover, this article maintains that the contemporary relevance of “Therapy of Fashion” lies in the fact that it was developed at a time, at the turn of the 1960s, when in North America and Western Europe both therapy and fashion initially became key coordinates said to define our experience and understanding of ourselves. In its analysis, this article draws on a wide variety of sources: medical journals, local newspapers, contemporary publications about gender and mental hospitals, advertisements for psychotropic drugs and institutional garments, an author interview with one of the participating volunteers, and photographic documentation of different sessions.

中文翻译:

传递时尚、女性化和理智:“时尚疗法”和 1960 年代美国精神病患者的正常化

摘要 本文介绍了鲜为人知的“时尚疗法”疗法。1959 年在加利福尼亚州纳帕州立医院与一群女性精神病患者进行试点,最初由旧金山时尚集团作为志愿者项目进行,整个 1960 年代在几个美国城市实施。本文借鉴福柯分析框架,分析了在“时尚疗法”的背景下,服装和时尚如何被构建为一种规范化的“自我技术”,作为一种转化、改进和有效规范化的方式患者的身体和心灵。它争辩说,这种治疗方法的官方目标是“重建健康的女性特征”,旨在使女性患者成为女性,并在性别角色方面成为规范,社会行为和外表。此外,本文认为“时尚疗法”的当代意义在于它是在 1960 年代之交发展起来的,当时在北美和西欧,疗法和时尚最初成为关键坐标。定义我们的经验和对自己的理解。在分析中,本文利用了多种来源:医学期刊、当地报纸、关于性别和精神病院的当代出版物、精神药物和机构服装的广告、作者对一名参与志愿者的采访,以及不同的会话。本文认为,“时尚疗法”的当代相关性在于它是在 1960 年代之交发展起来的,当时在北美和西欧,疗法和时尚最初成为定义的关键坐标我们的经验和对自己的理解。在分析中,本文利用了多种来源:医学期刊、当地报纸、关于性别和精神病院的当代出版物、精神药物和机构服装的广告、作者对一名参与志愿者的采访,以及不同的会话。本文认为,“时尚疗法”的当代相关性在于它是在 1960 年代之交发展起来的,当时在北美和西欧,疗法和时尚最初成为定义的关键坐标我们的经验和对自己的理解。在分析中,本文利用了多种来源:医学期刊、当地报纸、关于性别和精神病院的当代出版物、精神药物和机构服装的广告、作者对一名参与志愿者的采访,以及不同的会话。在北美和西欧,治疗和时尚最初成为关键坐标,据说可以定义我们的体验和对自己的理解。在分析中,本文利用了多种来源:医学期刊、当地报纸、关于性别和精神病院的当代出版物、精神药物和机构服装的广告、作者对一名参与志愿者的采访,以及不同的会话。在北美和西欧,治疗和时尚最初成为关键坐标,据说可以定义我们的体验和对自己的理解。在分析中,本文利用了多种来源:医学期刊、当地报纸、关于性别和精神病院的当代出版物、精神药物和机构服装的广告、作者对一名参与志愿者的采访,以及不同的会话。
更新日期:2020-04-07
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