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Surfzone-beach-dune interactions along a variable low wave energy dissipative beach
Marine Geology ( IF 2.6 ) Pub Date : 2021-02-26 , DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2021.106438
Martim A.B. Moulton , Patrick A. Hesp , Graziela Miot da Silva , Robert Keane , Guilherme B. Fernandez

The different possible factors that influence or drive the observed volumetric and morphological variation in foredunes located along 16 km of a low wave energy, dissipative southern section of the 190 km long Younghusband Peninsula (South Australia) are examined. Grain size, wind energy, coastline orientation, and vegetation species presence/absence vary only slightly along this coast providing a unique site to study other drivers of coastal change. Results show that foredune height and volume progressively increase towards the north coincident with a gradual increase in wave energy. A significant correlation between foredune volume and wave energy is established, while no apparent relationship with other controlling factors was found, confirming the importance of wave energy in the dune building process on wave-dominated beaches. Results indicate that (1) all other factors being equal, wave energy can drive the morphological evolution of foredunes; (2) minor changes in wave energy can result in differences in the long-term beach and dune sediment budget; and, (3) the surfzone-beach-dune interactions model is applicable to coasts with small scale gradients in wave energy.



中文翻译:

沿可变低波能量耗散海滩的冲浪带-海滩-沙丘相互作用

考察了影响或驱动沿长波190 km长的Younghusband半岛(南澳大利亚)耗散性低的南部区域16 km的低波能所观测到的遗迹的体积和形态变化的不同可能因素。沿该海岸的颗粒大小,风能,海岸线方向和植被种类的存在/不存在仅略有变化,为研究其他沿海变化驱动因素提供了独特的场所。结果表明,前陆高度和体积向北逐渐增加,同时波能逐渐增加。建立了前额量与波浪能之间的显着相关性,但未发现与其他控制因素有明显的关系,从而确认了波浪能在以波浪为主的海滩上的沙丘建造过程中的重要性。结果表明:(1)在所有其他因素相同的情况下,波能可以驱动前兆的形态演化;(2)波浪能的微小变化会导致长期海滩和沙丘沉积物预算的差异;(3)冲浪带-海滩-沙丘相互作用模型适用于波浪能小比例梯度的海岸。

更新日期:2021-03-09
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