Purpose

The main objectives of this research work were to investigate the effect of production speed on intermingled yarn properties and melange fabric properties with special reference to melange appearance.

Design/methodology/approach

Polyester/nylon intermingled yarns were produced using an SSM DP3-C air-intermingling machine using commercial process parameters and Heberlein P212 nozzle. Melange fabric samples were knitted from polyester/nylon intermingled yarns while maintaining the same parameters to avoid knitting variations. The fabric samples were dyed using a sample dyeing machine while maintaining dye recipe and dyeing parameters constant to avoid dyeing variations.

Findings

The production speed has significant effect on intermingled yarn and melange fabric properties. When the production speed is increased, mingle points, mingle stability, linear density, strength and the elongation of the intermingled yarns decreases. When the production speed is increased, fabric weight decreases and the melange effect varies from dot-like appearance to line-like appearance.

Research limitations/implications

Only the effect of production speed on intermingled yarn and melange fabric properties is discussed in this paper. Appearance evaluating systems developed in this research are limited to melange fabrics produced using air-intermingled yarns with two colour components.

Practical implications

Results indicate that the intermingled yarns for the application of melange fabrics should be developed with optimum intermingling speeds, and it should not be changed during the production since production speed has significant effect on yarn and fabric parameters. Therefore, melange appearance and fabric weight may vary between fabric lots with different production speeds even though all the other parameters are kept constant. Further, melange appearance evaluation method developed in this research could be used as a guide in developing melange fabrics.

Originality/value

This research introduced a qualitative and a quantitative method to analyse melange fabric appearance. This melange appearance evaluation method can be used as a guide to achieve specific melange effect in the sample development stage. Further, when a melange sample appearance catalogue is developed for all the variables for a particular fabric type using this evaluation method, customer requested appearance can be achieved in minimum sample trials which save time, capacity, money and customer credibility.

中文翻译：

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生产速度对涤/锦混纺纱和混纺织物性能的影响

目的

本研究工作的主要目的是研究生产速度对混纺纱线性能和混纺织物性能的影响，特别是混纺外观。

设计/方法/方法

使用 SSM DP3-C 空气交织机使用商业工艺参数和 Heberlein P212 喷嘴生产涤纶/尼龙交织纱线。混色织物样品由聚酯/尼龙混纺纱线编织而成，同时保持相同的参数以避免编织变化。织物样品使用样品染色机染色，同时保持染料配方和染色参数恒定以避免染色变化。

发现

生产速度对混纺纱和混色织物性能有显着影响。当生产速度提高时，混纺纱的混纺点、混纺稳定性、线密度、强度和伸长率降低。当生产速度增加时，织物重量减少，混色效果从点状外观变为线状外观。

研究限制/影响

本文只讨论生产速度对混纺纱线和混色织物性能的影响。本研究中开发的外观评估系统仅限于使用具有两种颜色成分的空气混纺纱生产的混色织物。

实际影响

结果表明，用于混色织物的交织纱应以最佳的交织速度开发，并且在生产过程中不应改变，因为生产速度对纱线和织物参数有显着影响。因此，即使所有其他参数保持不变，不同生产速度的织物批次之间的混色外观和织物重量也会有所不同。此外，本研究开发的混色外观评价方法可作为开发混色织物的指南。

原创性/价值

本研究介绍了一种分析混色织物外观的定性和定量方法。这种混色外观评价方法可以作为指导，在样品开发阶段实现特定的混色效果。此外，当使用这种评估方法为特定织物类型的所有变量开发混杂样品外观目录时，可以在最少的样品试验中实现客户要求的外观，从而节省时间、容量、金钱和客户信誉。