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From a Survival Technique to a System of Luxury: Defining Gastronomy in Utopias from Mercier to Fourier
French Forum ( IF 0.1 ) Pub Date : 2018-01-01 , DOI: 10.1353/frf.2018.0032
Max Shrem

Abstract:Scholars can trace the origins of the cultural field of gastronomy by examining French utopian literature from the turn of the 18th century and beginning of the 19th century. Utopian literature from this period re-situated gourmandise in an Enlightenment discourse focused on sociability and sensuality. It elevated the act of eating to a topic worthy of serious scrutiny and shifted the conversation from food as sustenance to food as pleasure. This article examines culinary consumption in three utopias: Louis-Sébastien Mercier's L'An 2440, Bernardin de Saint-Pierre's Paul et Virginie, and Charles Fourier's Théorie des quatre mouvements et des destinées générals. The culinary utopias which reflect Brillat-Savarin's Physiologie du goût (1825) the most are not structured around survival, moderation, and reason. Instead, they are defined by emotions, pleasure, and excess. This study borrows from Roland Barthes' dichotomy between "domestic utopia" and "political utopia" to make sense of this evolution. More so than his predecessors (Mercier and Bernardin de Saint-Pierre), Fourier politicizes the domestic sphere of the kitchen with the purpose of ensuring the right to a minimum standard of sensual pleasure. Despite their differences, the radical mindset developed in all three utopias helped pave the way for gourmandise to become a democratized and celebrated national activity, one that would eventually lead to new cultural figures and professions (the gourmet and food critic).

中文翻译:

从生存技术到奢华系统:从 Mercier 到 Fourier 的乌托邦中定义美食

摘要:学者们可以通过考察 18 世纪初至 19 世纪初的法国乌托邦文学来追溯美食文化领域的起源。这一时期的乌托邦文学将美食重新置于启蒙运动的话语中,重点是社交和感性。它将饮食行为提升为一个值得认真审查的话题,并将谈话从食物作为食物转移到食物作为快乐。本文考察了三个乌托邦中的烹饪消费:Louis-Sébastien Mercier 的 L'An 2440、Bernardin de Saint-Pierre 的 Paul et Virginie 和 Charles Fourier 的 Théorie des quatre mouvements et des destinées générals。最能反映 Brillat-Savarin 的 Physiologie du goût (1825) 的烹饪乌托邦并不是围绕生存、节制和理性构建的。反而,它们由情绪、愉悦和过度定义。本研究借用罗兰·巴特 (Roland Barthes) 对“国内乌托邦”和“政治乌托邦”的二分法来理解这种演变。与他的前辈(Mercier 和 Bernardin de Saint-Pierre)相比,傅立叶将厨房的家庭领域政治化,目的是确保获得最低标准的感官愉悦的权利。尽管存在差异,但在所有三个乌托邦中发展起来的激进心态为美食家成为民主化和著名的国家活动铺平了道路,最终会导致新的文化人物和职业(美食家和美食评论家)出现。
更新日期:2018-01-01
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