The history of American foodways has come a long way since Richard Cummings published The American and His Food in 1940. While food history long struggled for legitimacy, a trickle of historians began to take food seriously as a subject of study by the 1990s. Since then, food history has come into its own and a host of studies have explored a variety of subtopics from the history of cookbooks to African American and immigrant foodways. With these two books, Gergely Baics and Kelly Erby add to this growing historiography. Feeding Gotham offers a quantitative study of the supply side of New York’s system of provisioning including its public markets and private retail food shops. Restaurant Republic examines the consumer side, specifically the development of Boston’s restaurant sector as an important part of the city’s public culture. While divergent in their methodologies, the two books cover similar ground in terms of their narrative trajectory: the nodes of food access grew considerably in the nineteenth century but the benefits were not spread evenly. In the case of New York, deregulation of the city’s markets led to a decline in the quality of the food supply for poorer New Yorkers and increased disparities in food access. In the case of Boston, dining out became part and parcel of urban life and touched almost all Bostonians in one way or another. But restaurants also served to segment the population along class, gender, and sometimes ethnic lines. Thus, both books shed important light on the process of urbanization and the interplay between food and the social structure of American cities in a formative period of development. Feeding Gotham documents and assesses the impact of the shift in Manhattan from a highly regulated public market system in the early national period to an unregulated system in the decades before the Civil War. Early national New

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（喂养）两个城市的故事

自 1940 年理查德·卡明斯 (Richard Cummings) 出版《美国人和他的食物》(The American and His Food) 以来，美国饮食的历史已经走过了漫长的道路。虽然食品历史长期以来一直在争取合法性，但到 1990 年代，一些历史学家开始认真对待食品作为研究课题。从那时起，食物史就出现了，许多研究探索了从食谱历史到非裔美国人和移民饮食方式的各种子主题。凭借这两本书，Gergely Baics 和 Kelly Erby 为这本不断增长的历史编纂增添了光彩。Feeding Gotham 对纽约供应系统的供应方进行了定量研究，包括其公共市场和私人零售食品店。Restaurant Republic 检查消费者方面，特别是波士顿餐饮业作为该市公共文化重要组成部分的发展。虽然在方法论上有所不同，但这两本书在叙事轨迹方面涵盖了相似的领域：食物获取的节点在 19 世纪显着增长，但收益并未平均分配。就纽约而言，该市市场的放松管制导致较贫困的纽约人的食品供应质量下降，食品供应方面的差距加大。就波士顿而言，外出就餐成为城市生活的重要组成部分，并以某种方式触动了几乎所有波士顿人。但餐馆也有助于按照阶级、性别，有时甚至是种族来划分人口。因此，这两本书都对城市化进程以及食物与处于发展形成时期的美国城市社会结构之间的相互作用提供了重要的启示。Feeding Gotham 记录并评估了曼哈顿从早期国家时期高度监管的公共市场系统转变为内战前几十年不​​受监管的系统的影响。早国新