Heritage politics can transform a dish, a cuisine or a meal into the emblem of a nation, a region or a community. A cultural and economic driver, culinary heritage has revealed the opportunities that actors can draw out of cultural essentialism, and the commercial exploitation that this can lead to. However, we know less about the consequences culinary heritage has in the lives of local communities and individuals concerned with it, in particular the most humble or vulnerable, nor the resulting modes of action – whether adoption, appropriation, rejection or indifference – it might provoke within and among these populations. This ethnographic study redresses this imbalance by giving voice to one of the symbols of current food politics in Mexico: indigenous female cooks. Their narratives evidence how practices of heritage deploy (food) cultures – and the people related to them – in programmatic, coercive fashions by building on notions and concepts of prospection, empowerment and audit culture. In villages, culinary heritage not only catalyses contradictions and tensions among women, which manifest in feelings of envy and injustice and decreased social cohesion; it also prompts changed opportunities that lead to resistance, new sociabilities and cooperation.

中文翻译：

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记录联合国教科文组织的盛宴：妇女“赋权”和程序烹饪的故事

遗产政治可以将一道菜，一道菜或一顿饭转变成一个国家，一个地区或一个社区的象征。作为文化和经济的驱动力，烹饪遗产揭示了演员可以从文化本质主义中汲取的机会，以及可以导致的商业开发。但是，我们对烹饪遗产对当地社区和与之相关的个人，尤其是最谦卑或最脆弱的人们的生活所产生的影响知之甚少，也不清楚由此产生的行动方式（无论是采用，挪用，拒绝还是冷漠）在这些人群之中和之中。这项人种学研究通过向墨西哥当前的粮食政治象征之一发声：土著女厨师，纠正了这种不平衡。他们的叙述证明了遗产的实践是如何在探矿，赋权和审计文化的概念和概念的基础上，以程序化，强制性方式部署（食品）文化以及与之相关的人们的。在乡村，烹饪遗产不仅加剧了妇女之间的矛盾和紧张，这种矛盾和紧张表现为嫉妒和不公正的感觉以及社会凝聚力的下降。它也提示了变化的机会，导致抵抗，新的社会和合作。