careful, or not so careful direction from the state. Regions and locality have anyway been constituted against the grain of globalization and national identity building. Yet most studies still give primacy to the national as the main purveyor of understanding identity, while the region has remained a strong place of identification and distinctiveness. Bohling proposes a convincing picture of the field of production presented in its scaled and contested socio-political configuration through its relationship to key institutions and political actors, but also impacting upon consumption. Consumption, however, remains defined as a series of policies, ideas, initiatives and propaganda aimed at a fictional consumer never clearly defined through his/ her social practices. Often scholars rely upon a range of existing categories of analysis such as wine production, wine consumption, health policies and political lobbies which privilege the top-down stateand elite-driven political process in the analysis of wine consumption. The realities of how the ‘French’ category, itself largely problematic, engages with wine consumption remains difficult to grasp in its regional diversity. Chapter 4, ‘Drinking and Driving’ (119–52), provides a striking illustration of the complexity of the challenge. Bohling’s discussion of the sober revolution through the paradoxes of drinking and driving is original and convincing when charting the rise of wine tourism with its necessary instrument of expansion, the automobile and the subsequent road safety agenda. However, what he does not consider is how the agenda was regionally deployed, and in certain instances, resisted. That said Bohling’s elegantly written book provides an important contribution to the field of wine studies and is likely to remain a point of reference for many years to come. It opens new avenues to engage further with France’s diverse geography of drinking cultures.

中文翻译：

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Stephen D. Bowd，文艺复兴时期的大屠杀：意大利战争期间的平民和士兵

小心，或不那么小心的方向从状态。无论如何，区域和地方的构成都与全球化和国家认同建设背道而驰。然而，大多数研究仍然把民族作为理解身份的主要提供者放在首位，而该地区仍然是身份认同和独特性的重要场所。博林通过与关键机构和政治参与者的关系，在规模化和有争议的社会政治结构中展示了生产领域的一幅令人信服的图景，同时也对消费产生了影响。然而，消费仍然被定义为一系列针对虚构消费者的政策、想法、倡议和宣传，从未通过他/她的社会实践明确定义。学者们通常依赖于一系列现有的分析类别，例如葡萄酒生产、葡萄酒消费、健康政策和政治游说团体，这些分析在葡萄酒消费分析中优先于自上而下的国家和精英驱动的政治过程。“法国”类别本身在很大程度上存在问题，如何与葡萄酒消费互动的现实在其区域多样性中仍然难以把握。第 4 章“酒后驾车”（119-52）提供了挑战的复杂性的惊人例证。博林通过酒后驾驶的悖论对清醒革命的讨论在描绘葡萄酒旅游的兴起及其必要的扩张工具、汽车和随后的道路安全议程时，是原创且令人信服的。然而，他没有考虑的是议程是如何在区域部署的，并且在某些情况下，抵制。也就是说，Bohling 写的优雅的书为葡萄酒研究领域做出了重要贡献，并且很可能在未来很多年仍然是一个参考点。它为进一步接触法国多样化的饮酒文化地理开辟了新的途径。