ABSTRACT In the northern upland Philippines, a new group of social entrepreneurs are working with Cordillera weavers to develop innovatively designed but indigenously inspired textiles that respond to the global market for artisanal goods. These social entrepreneurs champion business transparency, quality production, ongoing producer–buyer relationships and community welfare. This article investigates these frontier enterprises in Ifugao and Benguet provinces. I argue that to understand the nuanced dynamics of such contemporary textile production and trade means exploring how artisans and entrepreneurs operationalize work opportunities and negotiate market precarity, given shifts in raw material availability, labour conditions, market demand and the material representation of local cultural identity. I suggest that these interdependent forces keep entrepreneurs and artisans in a reciprocal relationship of trust – but one that experiences periodic ruptures, such as when financial need sees artisans sell to one entrepreneur goods promised to another. To meet changing consumer tastes, artisans and entrepreneurs also refashion any concept of a static ‘authenticity’ by incorporating textile designs that speak both of modernity and local indigenous identity. The cultural turn privileging ethical consumption thus suggests these social initiatives can resolve push-pull tensions to yield an industry for, and more responsive to, artisans’ and consumers’ needs.

中文翻译：

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手工贸易的时尚前沿：菲律宾科迪勒拉的社会企业家精神和纺织品生产

摘要在菲律宾北部高地，一群新的社会企业家正在与科迪勒拉织工合作开发创新设计但具有本土灵感的纺织品，以响应全球手工艺品市场。这些社会企业家倡导商业透明度、高质量生产、持续的生产者-购买者关系和社区福利。本文对伊富高省和本格特省的这些前沿企业进行了调查。我认为，要了解这种当代纺织品生产和贸易的微妙动态，意味着要探索工匠和企业家如何在原材料供应、劳动力条件、市场需求和当地文化特征的物质表现发生变化的情况下，利用工作机会和谈判市场不稳定。我建议这些相互依赖的力量使企业家和工匠保持相互信任的关系——但这种关系会周期性地破裂，例如当经济需要时，工匠将向另一位企业家承诺的商品出售给另一位企业家。为了满足不断变化的消费者口味，工匠和企业家还通过融入既能体现现代感又能体现当地土著身份的纺织品设计来重塑任何静态“真实性”的概念。因此，赋予道德消费特权的文化转向表明，这些社会举措可以解决推拉式的紧张关系，从而产生一个满足工匠和消费者需求的行业，并对其做出更积极的响应。例如，当经济需要看到工匠向一个企业家出售承诺给另一个企业家的商品时。为了满足不断变化的消费者口味，工匠和企业家还通过融入既能体现现代感又能体现当地土著身份的纺织品设计来重塑任何静态“真实性”的概念。因此，赋予道德消费特权的文化转向表明，这些社会举措可以解决推拉式的紧张关系，从而产生一个能够满足工匠和消费者需求的行业，并更能响应他们的需求。例如，当经济需要时，工匠向一位企业家出售承诺给另一位企业家的商品。为了满足不断变化的消费者口味，工匠和企业家还通过融入既能体现现代感又能体现当地土著身份的纺织品设计来重塑任何静态“真实性”的概念。因此，赋予道德消费特权的文化转向表明，这些社会举措可以解决推拉式的紧张关系，从而产生一个能够满足工匠和消费者需求的行业，并更能响应他们的需求。