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Fashion and Historical Imagination: The Case of Sun Shou’s “Bewitching and Strange Appearances”
Early Medieval China ( IF 0.3 ) Pub Date : 2020-01-01 , DOI: 10.1080/15299104.2020.1780739
Rebecca Doran 1
Affiliation  

Sun Shou (d. 159), the vilified and powerful wife of notorious regent to the throne Liang Ji (d. 159), is famous for her invention of novel fashions, including new styles of eyebrow, makeup, and hair, and even new ways of walking and smiling. In Hou Hanshu and elsewhere, Sun Shou’s invention of these styles plays an important role in constructing a condemnatory historical judgment of her character, which is informed by systems of correlative cosmology and sumptuary regulation. Significantly, however, attitudes to these fashion statements are not uniform. The negotiation in textual and archaeological sources of the styles associated with Sun Shou, especially the popular duoma ji (“falling off a horse buns”), reveals a process of reimagining and re-appropriation that challenges simplistic or purely linear notions regarding the connotations that attach to and evolve along with individual fashion trends and styles. Read within the frameworks provided by cosmological and historical understandings of dress as a social and political marker, discussions of Sun Shou, duoma ji, and the other styles provide a compelling, lasting example of concerns regarding the ominous force of sumptuary behavior while also indicating processes of redefinition surrounding particular styles and historical actors.

中文翻译:

时尚与历史想象:以孙寿的“妖异外貌”为例

孙寿(卒于 159 年),臭名昭著的摄政王梁姬(卒于 159 年)的丑陋强大的妻子,以发明新颖的时尚而闻名,包括新式眉毛、新妆、新发型,甚至新式走路和微笑的方式。在侯汉书和其他地方,孙寿对这些风格的发明在构建对其性格的谴责性历史判断方面发挥了重要作用,这种判断是由相关的宇宙学和奢侈调节系统提供的。然而,值得注意的是,人们对这些时尚宣言的态度并不统一。与孙守有关的风格的文本和考古来源的谈判,特别是流行的多马记(“从马包子上掉下来”),揭示了重新构想和重新挪用的过程,挑战了关于依附于个人时尚趋势和风格并随其发展的内涵的简单化或纯线性概念。在宇宙学和历史对服饰作为社会和政治标志的理解提供的框架内阅读,对孙守、多马记和其他风格的讨论提供了一个令人信服的、持久的例子,关注奢侈行为的不祥力量,同时也表明了过程围绕特定风格和历史演员的重新定义。
更新日期:2020-01-01
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