The sixteen chapters of The Hidden History of American Fashion: Rediscovering TwentiethCentury Women Designers offer a wealth of information revealing a segment of the emergent American fashion industry that has long been overshadowed. Eighteen littleknown but influential women designers, many of whom were previously unnamed behind ready-to-wear labels primarily run by men, are finally given the recognition they deserve. The book aims to illustrate the “complex ecosystem” of designers, manufacturers, press, retailers, and the public, and reveals the control that manufacturers and department stores had on each designer’s career while also demonstrating regional idiosyncrasies (3). The editor and eighteen contributors to this collection represent universities and museums from across the United States. Their expansive research with primary sources ranging from archives and museum collections to personal interviews with designers assures the reader thorough and detailed content. The extensive bibliographies for each chapter are notable. Following an introduction by editor Nancy Deihl, the book is organized into three parts. Part 1, “Design Innovators,” includes chapters on Jessie Franklin Turner, Virginia Woods Bellamy, Tina Leser, and Sandra Garratt. Part 2, “Developing an Industry,” is larger and has chapters on Marion McCoy and Pauline Fracchia, Fira Benenson, Helen Lee and Suzanne Godart, Nicki “Catherine Scott” Ladany, Jean Wright, Mollie Parnis, Elizabeth “Libby” Payne, and Ruth Finley’s Fashion Calendar. The final section, Part 3, “Hollywood, Broadway, and Seventh Avenue,” spotlights Viola Dimmitt, Kiviette, Zelda Wynn Valdes, and Vicky Tiel. The book presents a family tree of American fashion designers, making connections between people who worked as assistants as they rose up in the ranks and became successful in their own right. For example, Tina Leser gave Liz Claiborne her first big break

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美国时尚的隐藏历史：重新发现二十世纪女性设计师

美国时尚的隐藏历史：重新发现二十世纪女性设计师的十六章提供了丰富的信息，揭示了新兴的美国时尚业长期以来一直黯然失​​色的部分。18 位鲜为人知但有影响力的女性设计师，其中许多以前在主要由男性经营的成衣品牌背后默默无闻，终于得到了她们应得的认可。这本书旨在说明设计师、制造商、媒体、零售商和公众的“复杂生态系统”，揭示制造商和百货公司对每个设计师职业生涯的控制，同时还展示了地区特质（3）。该系列的编辑和 18 位贡献者代表来自美国各地的大学和博物馆。他们对从档案和博物馆藏品到与设计师的个人访谈等主要来源的广泛研究向读者保证了全面和详细的内容。每章的广泛参考书目是值得注意的。根据编辑 Nancy Deihl 的介绍，本书分为三个部分。第 1 部分“设计创新者”包括有关 Jessie Franklin Turner、Virginia Woods Bellamy、Tina Leser 和 Sandra Garratt 的章节。第 2 部分“发展一个行业”更大，有关于 Marion McCoy 和 Pauline Fracchia、Fira Benenson、Helen Lee 和 Suzanne Godart、Nicki “Catherine Scott” Ladany、Jean Wright、Mollie Parnis、Elizabeth “Libby” Payne 和露丝芬利的时尚日历。最后一部分，第 3 部分，“好莱坞、百老汇和第七大道”，聚焦 Viola Dimmitt、Kiviette、Zelda Wynn Valdes、和薇琪·蒂尔。这本书展示了美国时装设计师的家谱，在这些人之间建立了联系，这些人在晋升时担任助手并凭借自己的力量取得成功。例如，蒂娜·莱瑟 (Tina Leser) 给了丽兹·克莱伯恩 (Liz Claiborne) 第一次重大突破