Abstract This article considers the emerging Bolivian gastronomic discourse as a project fraught with tensions. On the one hand, the discourse surrounding Bolivian cuisine, as presented in urban restaurants, highlights a new kind of nationalism that promotes regional cooking and innovation. This process has elevated indigenous ingredients, such as quinoa, chuño (freeze-dried potatoes), and llama meat, to the status of delicacies. This gastronomic emergence parallels the recent rise of an indigenous middle-class, as well as the shifting political boundaries between indigenous and non-indigenous in the era of President Evo Morales. Nevertheless, elite urban forms of Bolivian cuisine only partially transcend gender, class, and ethnic divides; they sometimes have the (unintended) effect of highlighting and re-inscribing existing social fault-lines. This article considers how indigenous Bolivian women are used to mark Bolivian cuisine, while they are simultaneously marginalized from it. While indigenous women dominate the “culinary field” of quotidian eating in domestic and marketplace arenas, they are far less evident in the “gastronomic fields” of elite restaurants, cookbooks, and written texts. Despite this exclusion, their presence is often invoked through ethnically-marked clothing such as the pollera and their symbolic production of “local” food.

中文翻译：

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重新构想玻利维亚美食：高级传统美食及其不满

摘要 本文将新兴的玻利维亚美食讨论视为一个充满紧张局势的项目。一方面，围绕玻利维亚美食的话语，如城市餐厅所呈现的，突出了一种促进区域烹饪和创新的新型民族主义。这一过程将藜麦、chuño（冻干土豆）和美洲驼肉等本土食材提升为美味佳肴。这种美食的出现与最近土着中产阶级的崛起，以及在埃沃·莫拉莱斯总统时代土着和非土着之间不断变化的政治界限相似。尽管如此，玻利维亚美食的精英城市形式只是部分地超越了性别、阶级和种族差异；它们有时具有突出和重新刻画现有社会断层线的（意外）效果。本文考虑了土著玻利维亚妇女如何被用来标记玻利维亚美食，同时她们又被边缘化。虽然土著妇女在家庭和市场领域的日常饮食“烹饪领域”占主导地位，但在精英餐厅、食谱和书面文本的“美食领域”中，她们却远没有那么明显。尽管有这种排斥，但他们的存在通常是通过带有民族标志的服装（如花粉）和他们生产的“当地”食物的象征性产品而引起的。和书面文本。尽管有这种排斥，但他们的存在通常是通过带有民族标志的服装（如花粉）和他们生产的“当地”食物的象征性产品而引起的。和书面文本。尽管有这种排斥，但他们的存在通常是通过带有民族标志的服装（如花粉）和他们生产的“当地”食物的象征性产品而引起的。