Abstract Cocineras tradicionales—traditional female cooks—are women of Mexican indigenous descent who embody the status of food tradition bearers and the “ethnic” components of Mexican foodways. In the climate of enthusiasm generated by the 2010 nomination of “traditional Mexican cuisine” as Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO, cocineras tradicionales are esteemed social figures and both a driving force and a symbol of Mexico’s current food and tourism policies. This article is an examination of the power relations surrounding the making of this heritage identity. Drawing on fieldwork conducted in Mexico City and the state of Oaxaca among cocineras, heritage agents, and cultural activists, it demonstrates how the economics and politics of culture turn food into a tool and a product, describes the strategies employed by various actors in this realm, and examines the ways in which recognition and material rewards are allocated in the field of food heritage.

中文翻译：

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墨西哥的民族烹饪遗产和 cocineras tradicionales（传统女厨师）

摘要 Cocineras tradicionales——传统的女厨师——是墨西哥土著血统的女性，她们体现了饮食传统承载者的地位和墨西哥饮食的“种族”成分。在 2010 年联合国教科文组织将“传统墨西哥美食”提名为非物质文化遗产所产生的热情气氛中，传统墨西哥菜是受人尊敬的社会人物，既是墨西哥当前食品和旅游政策的推动力和象征。本文是对围绕这一遗产身份形成的权力关系的考察。借鉴在墨西哥城和瓦哈卡州在 cocineras、遗产代理人和文化活动家中进行的实地调查，它展示了文化的经济和政治如何将食物变成工具和产品，