Abstract This article examines how Gourmet, the nation’s most influential food magazine, covered Southeast Asia after the Vietnam War. Between its first article in 1969 and its last issue in 2009, Gourmet published 56 pieces on the region’s nine countries over 40 years. The tone and scope of this coverage changed very little, demonstrating how Gourmet failed to evolve in its stated purpose of using food as a lens for the thoughtful inquiry and exploration of people and culture. This article examines three important characteristics of Gourmet’s Southeast Asian coverage. First, it focused on a romanticized history of French, Dutch, British, and American empires that ignored the region’s modern development, particularly its booming economies and detestable dictatorships. Second, it embraced tourism as a means for these dictatorships to rebrand themselves by removing the stench of questionable human rights and environmental records. Third, it homogenized the entire region into a collection of a few hotels and resorts that left little voice or agency for Southeast Asian people. Gourmet thus made Southeast Asia into a safe, anodyne, and ultimately bland space that relied on representations of historical and contemporary selectivity, the destructive amnesia of colonial hagiography, complicity with dictators to rebrand through state-funded tourism, and the danger of transforming diverse regions and peoples into interchangeable parts of a repetitive trope. Rather than use food as a lens for a better engagement with society and culture, Gourmet perpetuated the racial hierarchies and exploitative relationships of the past through the seemingly innocuous genre of contemporary food writing.

中文翻译：

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老味道，老故事：美食杂志对越南战争后东南亚的描绘

摘要 本文考察了越南战争后美国最具影响力的食品杂志 Gourmet 如何报道东南亚。从 1969 年的第一篇文章到 2009 年的最后一期，Gourmet 在 40 年间发表了 56 篇关于该地区九个国家的文章。这篇报道的基调和范围几乎没有变化，这表明 Gourmet 未能实现其将食物作为对人和文化进行深思熟虑的探究和探索的既定目的。本文考察了 Gourmet 东南亚报道的三个重要特征。首先，它关注法国、荷兰、英国和美国帝国的浪漫历史，而忽视了该地区的现代发展，尤其是其蓬勃发展的经济和可憎的独裁统治。第二，它将旅游业作为这些独裁者通过消除有问题的人权和环境记录的恶臭来重塑自己的一种手段。第三，它将整个地区同质化为几个酒店和度假村的集合，为东南亚人民留下了很少的发言权或代理权。因此，Gourmet 将东南亚变成了一个安全、无痛且最终平淡的空间，它依赖于对历史和当代选择性的表现、殖民圣徒传记的破坏性健忘症、与独裁者共谋通过国家资助的旅游业重塑品牌，以及改变不同地区的危险和人们变成重复比喻的可互换部分。与其将食物作为更好地融入社会和文化的镜头，