ABSTRACT Recent ethnographies from the anthropology of food and the senses have shown how moments in which people taste foods are shaped by scientific knowledge, methods, and rationales. Building on approaches developed in science and technology studies, this article offers an ethnography of the field to which this shaping power has been assigned: the scientific study of taste. Detailed tracing and analysis of two laboratory experiments on taste performed in laboratories in Western Europe brings out how both turn moments in which people taste into a bodily response. At the same time, since their technical set-ups address different societal problems and varying interest groups, they stage diverging versions: a perception versus a reaction to an exposure. The article, thus, sheds light on how cultural and social norms, ideals, and practices shape the knowledge production about taste and its resulting effects.

中文翻译：

---

味觉感官科学研究。西欧两个实验室实验的民族志

摘要 来自食物和感官人类学的最新民族志表明，人们品尝食物的时刻是如何受到科学知识、方法和原理的影响的。本文以科学和技术研究中开发的方法为基础，提供了具有这种塑造能力的领域的民族志：品味科学研究。对在西欧实验室进行的两项关于味觉的实验室实验的详细追踪和分析揭示了两者如何将人们的味觉时刻转化为身体反应。与此同时，由于他们的技术设置解决了不同的社会问题和不同的利益群体，他们呈现出不同的版本：感知与对暴露的反应。因此，这篇文章阐明了文化和社会规范、理想、