ABSTRACT Sushi first achieved widespread popularity in the United States in the mid-1960s. Many accounts of sushi's US establishment foreground the role of a small number of key actors, yet underplay the role of a complex web of large-scale factors that provided the context in which sushi was able to flourish. This article critically reviews existing literature, arguing that sushi's US popularity arose from contingent, long-term, and gradual processes. It examines US newspaper accounts of sushi during 1945–1970, which suggest the discursive context for US acceptance of sushi was considerably more propitious than generally acknowledged. Using California as a case study, the analysis also explains conducive social and material factors, and directs attention to the interplay of supply- and demand-side forces in the favorable positioning of this “new” food. The article argues that the US establishment of sushi can be understood as part of broader public acceptance of Japanese cuisine.

中文翻译：

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寿司在美国，1945-1970 年

摘要 寿司于 1960 年代中期首次在美国广受欢迎。许多关于寿司在美国成立的描述都强调了少数关键角色的作用，但低估了提供寿司能够蓬勃发展的背景的大规模因素的复杂网络的作用。本文批判性地回顾了现有文献，认为寿司在美国的流行是偶然的、长期的和渐进的过程。它检查了 1945 年至 1970 年期间美国报纸上关于寿司的报道，这表明美国接受寿司的话语背景比普遍承认的要有利得多。以加州为例，分析还解释了有利的社会和物质因素，并将注意力引向供给侧和需求侧力量在这种“新”食品的有利定位中的相互作用。文章认为，美国寿司的建立可以理解为公众更广泛接受日本料理的一部分。