Abstract Culinary nationalism is not unique to Japan, although its performance by the Japanese government has received significant attention and criticism as exemplified in its so-called “sushi police” program. This and other counterpart programs were explicit attempts to “authenticate” Japanese food abroad, which the government eventually rescinded in response to backlash from within and outside Japan. However, new, diversified, and intensified forms of “authentication” and “certification” systems for Japanese food have been created by the government in recent years, apparently reinvigorated by the inscription of Japanese food, that is, washoku, as Intangible Heritage under the UNESCO in 2013. This article investigates culinary nationalism among the proponents of Japanese food in the context of the heritagization of washoku, with particular reference to the accreditation and certification systems for Japanese food. A number of quasi-official recognition schemes for Japanese restaurants abroad were already in place before heritage inscription, but current systems have taken on a renewed vigor in light of UNESCO recognition. Government-sponsored culinary competitions have also emerged in the period around the inscription; the performance of nationalism in such contexts are also examined, especially through the case of sushi, perhaps the most representative of Japanese food. Subsequently, the social and cultural contexts as well as the consequences of culinary nationalism in Japan are discussed.

中文翻译：

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治安和食：日本烹饪民族主义的表现

摘要 烹饪民族主义并非日本独有，尽管日本政府在其所谓的“寿司警察”计划中的表现受到了极大的关注和批评。该计划和其他对应计划是在国外“认证”日本食品的明确尝试，政府最终因日本国内外的强烈反对而取消了该计划。然而，近年来，政府创造了新的、多样化的、强化形式的日本食品“认证”和“认证”系统，显然是通过将日本食品（即和食）列​​为非物质遗产而重新焕发活力的。联合国教科文组织于 2013 年。本文在和食遗产化的背景下调查了日本食品支持者的烹饪民族主义，特别是关于日本食品的认可和认证系统。在列入遗产名录之前，一些针对海外日本餐馆的准官方认可计划已经到位，但鉴于联合国教科文组织的认可，当前的系统已经焕发出新的活力。在铭文前后，政府赞助的烹饪比赛也出现了；民族主义在这种情况下的表现也得到了检验，特别是通过寿司，也许是最具代表性的日本食品。随后，讨论了日本的社会和文化背景以及烹饪民族主义的后果。在列入遗产名录之前，一些针对海外日本餐馆的准官方认可计划已经到位，但鉴于联合国教科文组织的认可，当前的系统已经焕发出新的活力。在铭文前后，政府赞助的烹饪比赛也出现了；民族主义在这种情况下的表现也得到了检验，特别是通过寿司，也许是最具代表性的日本食品。随后，讨论了日本的社会和文化背景以及烹饪民族主义的后果。在列入遗产名录之前，一些针对海外日本餐馆的准官方认可计划已经到位，但鉴于联合国教科文组织的认可，当前的系统已经焕发出新的活力。在铭文前后，政府赞助的烹饪比赛也出现了；民族主义在这种情况下的表现也得到了检验，特别是通过寿司，也许是最具代表性的日本食品。随后，讨论了日本的社会和文化背景以及烹饪民族主义的后果。尤其以寿司为例，也许是最具代表性的日本料理。随后，讨论了日本的社会和文化背景以及烹饪民族主义的后果。尤其以寿司为例，也许是最具代表性的日本料理。随后，讨论了日本的社会和文化背景以及烹饪民族主义的后果。