Abstract

The new generation of professors is set against a stereotype that emerged from the era of The Organization Man or Man in a Grey Flannel Suit—the 1950s white man, a family-wage earning provider for a family of dependents. Generation X and Millennial professors with subcultural affiliations and alternative appearances, including visible tattoos, are now altering the image of the new professor. Using the academic literature around fashion studies, this chapter contextualizes the voices of the participants as they speak in depth of the stylistic choices within the university, from pajama-clad students, power suit administrators, to faculty in activist T-shirts. Participants may have learned appropriate professional dress choices from graduate school workshops on tackling the academic employment interview, or through snide remarks from advisors or colleagues about the appropriateness of their fashion choices. Looking around at fellow faculty in the university, workers begin to fit into or differentiate themselves from the professional dress choices of their peers. These stylistic choices impact their interactions with others of different levels of the university hierarchy, from students to administrators. Overall professors are able to dress in a variety of manners while facing few social sanctions. However, straight white men are provided with the most latitude, while those with increasingly marginalized identities felt more pressure to conform to a normative expectation of conservative dress.

摘要

新一代教授反对组织人或穿灰色法兰绒西装的人时代出现的刻板印象— 1950 年代的白人，为一个受抚养家庭提供家庭工资的提供者。X 世代和千禧一代教授具有亚文化背景和不同的外表，包括可见的纹身，现在正在改变新教授的形象。本章使用围绕时尚研究的学术文献，将参与者的声音背景化，因为他们深入谈论了大学内部的风格选择，从穿着睡衣的学生、有权势的管理者到穿着激进 T 恤的教职员工。参与者可能已经从研究生院关于应对学术就业面试的研讨会中，或者通过顾问或同事对他们的时尚选择的适当性的讽刺评论，学会了适当的职业着装选择。环顾大学里的同事们，工人开始适应或区别于同龄人的职业着装选择。这些文体选择会影响他们与大学不同级别的其他人（从学生到管理人员）的互动。总体而言，教授们能够以各种方式着装，同时几乎不会受到社会制裁。然而，白人直男拥有最大的自由度，而那些身份日益边缘化的人则感到更大的压力，要求他们遵守对保守着装的规范期望。