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Fashion and the Phantasmagoria of Modernity: An Introduction to Decolonial Fashion Discourse
Fashion Theory ( IF 0.7 ) Pub Date : 2020-08-07 , DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2020.1802098
M. Angela Jansen

Abstract Although eurocentrism in fashion studies has been contested for nearly four decades, the topic is as timely and urgent as ever. While critiques focus on symptoms such as discrimination, inequality and exploitation, the actual “decease,” the modernity/coloniality structure, persists. The way fashion, as a noun, is being defined according to a temporality (contemporaneity), a system (of power) and an industry (of capitalism) particular to modernity, coloniality is inherent to its definition. Whereas fashion as a verb, the act of fashioning the body, is of all temporalities and geographies and operates beyond the colonial difference. Decolonial fashion discourse constitutes a framework that enables to redefine fashion as a multitude of possibilities rather than a normative framework falsely claiming universality, to humble modernity’s narrative by recognizing its own epitomical limits, to listen to and acknowledge an episteme plurality outside of modernity and to decenter the production of knowledge in regard to fashion. It aims to critique the denial and erasure of a diversity of ways to fashioning the body due to unequal global power relations based on modern-colonial order, the Euro-American canon of normativity and the exploitation and abuse of cultural heritages, human beings and natural resources.

中文翻译:

时尚与现代性的幻想:非殖民主义时尚话语导论

摘要 尽管时装研究中的欧洲中心主义已经争论了近四年,但这个话题一如既往地及时和紧迫。虽然批评集中在歧视、不平等和剥削等症状上,但实际的“死亡”,即现代性/殖民性结构仍然存在。作为名词,时尚是根据现代性特有的时间性(当代性)、系统(权力)和工业(资本主义)来定义的,殖民性是其定义所固有的。而作为动词的时尚,塑造身体的行为是所有时间和地域的,并且超越了殖民差异。非殖民化时尚话语构成了一个框架,能够将时尚重新定义为多种可能性,而不是错误地宣称普遍​​性的规范框架,通过承认现代性自身的缩影限制来谦卑现代性的叙事,倾听并承认现代性之外的认知多元性,并分散与时尚有关的知识生产。它旨在批判由于基于现代殖民秩序的不平等的全球权力关系、欧美规范以及对文化遗产、人类和自然的剥削和滥用而否定和消除塑造身体的多种方式。资源。
更新日期:2020-08-07
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